Rainy Day on the Prairie (in a little house)

There was quite a bit of talk about which Dakota was going to get our attention and gas money.

On the North Dakota side:

  • Neither of us had ever set foot in the state
  • Google Maps assured us it was the shortest path, by about an hour at least
  • Theodore Roosevelt National Park. Didn’t know it was there?  Neither did we
  • I’ve heard so much about the oil boom there and what it’s done to/for the state – wanted to see it first hand
  • Looking ahead, I wanted to approach Grand Targhee from the North, rather than from the Jackson Hole side, both for potential traffic reasons and for brutal mountain pass reasons. We’d yet done much uphill travel and weren’t sure how our rig was going to fare.

On the South Dakota side:

  • Everyone we asked the question to said “SOUTH DAKOTA, NO DOUBT!” Pretty much at least.  North Dakota did get some love, but for the most part it was more “if you do decide to go that way, at least do this…”
  • The Black Hills are nice, though we’d been to Mt. Rushmore on our way out to Annapolis from WA and found that immediate area a bit too touristy
  • Tacco wanted to see De Smet, where there’s a bunch of Laura Ingalls Wilder stuff (and Firebolt is in the process of reading Little House in the Big Woods)
  • An old friend of Tacco’s lives in Spearfish, on the west side of the state, near Sturgis.

I’ll skip to the end of what took up far too much time and mental energy and tell you that we opted to take the southern route, but then cross back over into Montana so as to take the northern route around Yellowstone and into Grand Targhee.  An extra couple hours, but who’s counting?  Other than us I mean.  We’re counting.

Anyway, we set off from the west side of Minneapolis and found ourselves in what I’d long pictured the rural Midwest to look like.  Here’s our route:IMG_8882

Lots of small farming towns, and mostly arrow-straight roads.  I found that I thoroughly enjoyed that sort of driving, with one exception, and that’s that these particular roads, likely from the yearly repairs after the freeze/thaw cycle, have creases in them about every hundred feet or so.  They’re the type of thing you wouldn’t even notice in a normal car, but we’re so not normal.  I’ve alluded to our (lack of?) suspension before, but every tiny irregularity in the road makes its presence felt, so my experience of Minnesota and the eastern half of South Dakota was overlaid by a constant “ka-KLUNK [pause] ka-KLUNK [pause] ka-KLUNK” ad infinitum.  I’d say it put a damper on things but it was sort of the opposite of that, with the same effect.  If you know what I mean.

Still a nice drive though, with a steady (but not heavy) rain.  After a few hours, we pulled into De Smet and found the LIW homestead, which is actually a 50-or-so acre plot fashioned into a living museum of sorts, up a dirt road, our first in Davista.

Despite the rain, it was an excellent stop.  I earned Tacco’s scorn by running up along side the horses the kids were riding (one on actual horseback, two in a small rickshaw-type setup being pulled by a horse) to get a better vantage point for a picture.  Freaked the horses right out, which I’m now told is a completely predictable response.  Both she and the guide gave me a resigned “ignorant city folk” look.  Though hers was a bit more pointed.  She has some horse experience from childhood in the Midwest, and is savvier about such things in general.

Learned quite a bit about prairie living back in that time and some more about some of the Homestead Acts.  Still hard to fathom the government just giving away large tracts of land at a time when there really wasn’t much opportunity to own land, and in fact in Europe it was all owned by aristocracy.  No wonder so many folks crossed the pond.

The rest of the drive was kind of a grind, as this turned out to be our longest driving day so far – about 10 hours.  Certainly no record, but we’re doing our best to keep drives to 6 hours or less and do stops along the way.  We did cross the Missouri River half-way through South Dakota and noticed how different the landscape looked almost immediately.  My friend the night before had explained to us that SD is really two states, with the East of the Missouri side being farming country and the West of the Missouri side being all about ranching.  I made an effort to toss a little education into the mix by talking about rivers, watersheds, the Continental Divide, etc to the kiddos, but didn’t get much response.  In fairness, I only became really fascinated with geography in my 30s (other than an odd phase at 2-3 years old when I was all about a puzzle map of the US and decided to learn not only all the states, but their capitals too, which turned out to be quite the party trick), so I shouldn’t expect too much from them.  One of our goals is to have them be able to identify all the states, major cities, rivers, regions, and mountain ranges by the end of the year, but baby steps…

We got a peek at the Badlands from the interstate, but didn’t mind missing them too much as we’d spent some time there on our way from Anacortes to Annapolis 4 years earlier.

Finally pulled into Spearfish in the late afternoon/early evening, and found it to be an excellent little town.  It turned out that we missed the Sturgis rally by about a week, so the whole area was probably recovering and there was quite a bit of festival detritus on the way in, but the town is beautiful.  It sits on the edge of the Black Hills, with a cold stream running through town, on which lies both a trout hatchery and a city campground, where we stayed.  Keeper and the girls went straight to the fishing poles to see if they could pull the next day’s breakfast out of the stream, but no luck there.  Didn’t see any fish in the water at all in fact, so we might have missed the high season (or I scared them away, which seems to be a recurring theme with fish).

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TC’s good friend from her recruiting days back in Whidbey joined us at the campground with some snacks and IPA, and we had an excellent visit until well into the evening.  Great to see her!

We wound up our time in Spearfish with a hike up the stream and around the hills a bit.  It was the first time this trip we’ve felt and smelled “mountain air” and it was extremely welcome.  I don’t think Spearfish is especially high in elevation, but the drive there from Minnesota was essentially one long, gradual climb.  The air was dry, it was warm in the day and cool at night, and it smelled like pines and fresh stream.  I love all of the above and am looking forward to much, much more of that.

Feelin’ Minnesota

It was an easy flying commute but a tough few hours.  After much back and forth and variations on the theme of “so you’re comfortable with this?” from my end, TC decided it was time to depart Michigan and get her trial by fire qualification via a drive from Michigan to Minneapolis.

In theory this was easy on me as I was able to simply fly to MSP from Boston after my redeye from Oakland.  Much easier than trying to get into Marquette or even Duluth.  In practice, it was nerve-wracking at best, thinking about her doing her first no-kidding long drive with the kiddos and without me.

Quick digression, though… I mentioned Oakland, and this was pretty cool.  I had 24 hours there during my second of two trips while gone from the family back in the UP, and was fortunate enough to have a brunch with my parents, my sister and brother-in-law, and all her kids (one home for the weekend from college even!) at my parents’ house.  This is extremely rare, both managing to do this sort of thing under the auspices of work and getting all of those people together at once.  Noteworthy and unforgettable!

Back to Minneapolis.  I arrived there at about lunchtime while TC and the fam were en route.  I was able to track Keeper’s phone’s location, so every half hour I’d keep my angst in check by bringing up the display of Keeper’s face trucking down Minnesota’s back roads toward Minneapolis.  Progress appeared solid, and I grabbed a Lyft to the park at which we’d planned to camp with the intention to scout campsites and check in prior to their arrival.  We had opted for a park on a lake (you need to work not to be on a lake in Minnesota I think) on the west side of town near a good college friend I’d hoped to visit while in town.

My Lyft driver was a very personable, younger Somali gentleman whom I was able to chat with on the 45 minute drive.  My Navy time never took me to the horn of Africa, and my knowledge of the area is more or less limited to Black Hawk Down and Iman / David Bowie, so I wasn’t the best conversational partner.  I did manage to ask him whether he enjoyed Minnesota (yes, but it’s quite cold in the Winter) and whether he missed Somalia at all (NO!).  Um, duh.

Returning to the family, Tacco killed it.

IMG_8836Managed both the gas station evolution (which requires far more pre-planning than it would appear) and a detour through downtown Minneapolis, the thought of which made me shudder.  They rolled in triumphantly in the late afternoon, and we settled into another thoroughly pleasant campground.  The Midwest seems to do these well.

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The following day in Minneapolis was devoted to errands, as we’d yet to have such a day.  Eye exams and new glasses for the kiddos, Trader Joe’s for the rest of us, and a bit of mall time in the interim.  Not the Mall of America mind you, but the one in Wayzata is as thoroughly pleasant as the campground was, as is the rest of the town.  I can see why Brandon and Brenda missed it at times, despite their new Beverly Hills digs.  I’m sensing a recurrent “pleasant” theme in Minnesota.

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We spent the evening catching up with one of my college roommates and great friends, and his oldest son at their gorgeous house on (another!) lake in Plymouth.  Fantastic.  As often happens, it ended up being the type of thing that was so brief that it makes me wish for a full-on several day visit instead, but still great to see him.  I’m able to do that sort of fly-by visit quite a bit with my job, but I’m finding that we’re doing even more of it than I’d expected we would with this trip, as we keep remembering about people who are in town and/or others who happen to be either vacationing in our area or currently living somewhere in our path.  It’s turning out to be one of the unexpected benefits of this year.  It would’ve been nice to join them on their boat on Lake Minnetonka the following day, but it was time to head West.

How I Spent My Summer Vacation (without Flight)

Wed (09 Aug) –

After we dropped Flight off at the airport, we headed into Marquette proper to explore. First, we had brekkie at Donckers, Marquette’s premier candy store (they have a delightful deli above the incredible sweets shop), and I enjoyed the best breakfast sandwich I have ever eaten. Seriously. Instead of being filled with peppermint patties and Doncker’s trademark caramels, which would have been equally scrumptious but maybe after dinner, my sandwich was brimming with hummus, goat cheese, tomato, avocado, ham, and topped with an organic egg – all on house-made focaccia goodness. Words cannot do it justice. The kids went for French toast and hot cakes, but my savory choice was perfect.

I’m not sure how I managed it, but over breakfast I convinced the kids we should check out the Marquette Regional History Museum next.   Unsure how well or for how long the exhibits might capture their attention, I was very pleasantly surprised by how much we all enjoyed the experience. The smaller rotating exhibit was on fly-fishing (something we hope to try on our journey), and I was impressed with the amount of information that was easily communicated in a relatively small space. The girls completed a scavenger hunt as they learned about the local area. The bonus was that the museum was hosting a series of day camp groups, which meant there were a group of play actors discussing the exhibits and we were able to listen in. I spoke with one fellow who was portraying the local blacksmith, whose role was loosely based on his grandfather’s life. My favorite (of course) was the discussion of herbal remedies used in the early 20th century led by a retired pharmacist.

Hungered by our hours of exploration, we sought out another eating establishment to fill our bellies. As tempted as I was to return to Donckers, we instead chose The Delft Bistro, not due to the Dutch connection but because it boasted a great menu in an intriguing venue. Transformed from a 1914 movie theater, The Delft Bistro continues to show movies while providing delicious fare. The kids were thrilled to be able to watch a movie while enjoying their lunch (not something we usually encourage), and their preoccupation offered me the opportunity to plan out the rest of our afternoon and contemplate the rest of our time in da UP sans Flight.

Happily sated, we walked down W Washington St and found a couple of treasures along the way. As we meandered we found Taiga Games and were suckered in by the largest jigsaw puzzle I have ever seen:

 

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Apparently it measures 17’x 6’ when complete. !!! We chose one a little smaller, 1/32 the size to be exact, and a roll-up puzzle mat in which to store it. We also spent considerable time browsing in Book World. Each with a Donckers’ treat, a new book, and a goodie from the museum store, we headed to the Suburu and returned to base, still unidentified mission complete.

Thursday (10 Aug)

In gathering research for the homeschooling aspect of our adventure, a good friend shared that it’s important to build in some down time for every few days of experiential learning to allow the kids to process their experiences. Wise advice, one I followed today. We spent the day reading, relaxing, riding bikes, and enjoying some beachtime.

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Friday (11 Aug)

Friday was rainy and made for a perfect laundry day – woo hoo! Although there are some larger RVs that have a small washer and dryer aboard, ours does not. Fortunately. I had read in most places that it’s far better use of limited resources (water and electricity) just to go to a laundromat. Where else can you get five loads of laundry done in the time it takes to do one? Works for me. It offered us the time to knock out our homeschool efforts for the day and gave us another excuse to further explore Marquette.

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Don’t they look thrilled?

After lunch at Donckers (couldn’t stay away), we retrieved a lost item from the game store before going to the Upper Peninsula Children’s Museum. Although Keeper was less enthusiastic about this part of our excursion (“Mom, this is for LITTLE KIDS.”), the girls were immediately enthralled. Not unlike its cousin a few blocks away, this museum was incredibly well appointed.   I lost track of how many alcoves there were (and occasionally the girls), each with a different subject to explore and presented in an ingenious way. Curious about digestion? You can pretend to be lunch, scale a climbing wall in the stomach and take a slide down through the intestines.   Interested in where stuff disappears to when you flush the toilet? Take a slide down a toilet into a sewer system where you can learn about the water table. Again, brilliant. While Keeper watched YouTube science videos and the girls ardently explored, I chatted with a lovely Yooper who gave us some good gouge on how to spend our remaining time in da UP.

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Bribing the girls to leave with a promise to get frozen yogurt, we headed back to W. Washington St. After a quick stop at Taiga Games (Firebolt had left a toy in the game store, which was just where she’d left it two days before), I made good on my bribe.

Our last stop in town was my favorite. The local Co-Op thrilled my foodie self. Having worked our way through much of our last Trader Joe’s run in Detroit, I purchased both staples and sundries to refill our larder and we headed home after a satisfyingly productive day in Marquette.

Saturday (12 Aug) –

Our excursion of the day involved a two-hour drive out to Kitch-Iti-Kipi or The Big Spring, which is near Manistique.   The girls had a trickier time of it having lost the privilege of using anything with a screen. To entertain us during the drive, I asked Firebolt to read Little House in the Big Woods aloud, in preparation for a possible visit to the Laura Ingalls Wilder Homestead in DeSmet, SD, should we opt to go that route when we zip out to Grand Targhee to view the eclipse.

Although finding the “Mirror of Heaven” (title bestowed by early Native Americans) was not unlike completing a treasure hunt without a map (have I mentioned the sketchy cell-phone coverage in da UP?) and unlabeled landmarks, the long trek was certainly worth it. The underwater springs feed this gorgeous pool over 10,000 gallons of chilly fresh water every minute. !!!

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After waiting in line for a stretch (apparently we’re not the only ones who chose to visit the springs on a summer Saturday), during which we were enlightened by a very knowledgeable volunteer guide, we boarded the observation craft. It’s a basic pontoon with a large hole cut out of the center to watch both the vast fish population and the springs as they gush, and it is child powered (= brilliant!) to traverse the pool and return.

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We opted not to make our way to the nearby mining ghost town for three reasons: 1) Woodsprite could not be convinced that the vacant town was not occupied by ghosts; 2) “nearby” ended up being 45 minutes in the opposite direction from Van Riper SP; and 3) the day was wearing on and we needed to get back to make dinner before the park hosted Showers and S’mores. The staff at Van Riper had a scavenger hunt (two in one week!) to learn about our solar system and the girls made Sky Wheels to orient themselves to the constellations while they enjoyed their s’mores.

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The Perseid Shower put on quite a show and, being tucked away in the wilds of Michigan, there wasn’t a lot of ambient light to compete. Chilled to the bone, we trundled off to bed at 11ish at last.

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Sun (13 Aug) –

We had a bit of a lie in this morning owing to our late night. This morning I spoke with Flight about his rejoining the family. He is scheduled to land from his last flight into Boston at 6 a.m. tomorrow after a brutal red eye, yet wouldn’t be able to get to us in Marquette until 11ish tomorrow night – and that’s if he made the flight. Hmmmm…

The better options, namely his flying into Duluth or Minneapolis, would have him arriving mid-afternoon. That sounded much better to me, the only problem is either of those more palatable options would necessitate my growing a set of ovaries and driving our 50’+ circus train there to meet him. I think I need to sit with that, maybe review the checklist a few times and do a feasibility study. And drink some scotch. Sorry, Copper Harbor and Isle Royale National Park, we’ll catch you another time, I have to brood…

Six Days Gone

So I abandoned my family in the wilds of Michigan.

OK, it wasn’t quite so dramatic as that, but I didn’t enjoy leaving them for that long.  Going forward I’m going to have to balance having fewer commutes to/from Boston with having long stretches of time away from the fam.  We all knew this was the deal going into this adventure, but there’s knowing and there’s knowing.  The reality hadn’t hit yet.

There were some positives though.  First of all, as Tacco already covered, Van Riper SP turned out to be one of the better campgrounds we’ve stayed at, despite its being not especially near anything we wanted to see.  That was a huge relief for me.

I was also able to spend a night in our house back in Annapolis and make sure things were more or less in order, as well as knocking out my semi-annual FAA physical with my normal doctor.  Bonus in that I was able to visit a few cousins who happened to be rolling through town.

My commute went well, too, and that was far from a given.  I flew out of Marquette, which is a small airport with only a few scheduled flights per day  [side note: are we the only two who didn’t know that Marquette University is nowhere near Marquette, Michigan?  It’s in Milwaukee, in case we aren’t].  The two that were my only potential players for a connection to Boston prior to my show time both looked full, so I was crossing fingers for no-show passengers or an available cockpit jumpseat.  Fortunately I got the latter to Chicago and was able to get to Boston relatively easily.

Tacco covered our UP time as well, and did a bang up job of it.  She and the kids were, of course, there for much more time than I, so I don’t have much to add.  I will say that, though it’s gorgeous, if I had to choose between the northern part of the lower peninsula and the UP I’d opt for the former.  Pictured Rocks on Lake Superior is stunning, and that red/pink/purple sand is like nothing I’d ever seen.  The park in general, however, seemed like the type of place better seen from the water than the shore.  Unfortunately we didn’t have time to test that theory.

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The latest issue involves my commute back, more specifically where I commute back to.  Tacco hasn’t yet done a full uproot-and-reroot-the-family-via-a-long-drive evolution and is rightfully cautious about doing so.  On the other hand, they’ve been in Van Riper for quite some time, and despite my trip ending early in the morning after a redeye, I couldn’t get back to Marquette until late evening, and am dependent on the same small/full flights that I lucked into on the way out to Boston.  An option would be for them to move west to Duluth, where I could reach them by afternoon.  A better option (but much longer drive for them) would be to meet them in Minneapolis.  Not only would it be a much easier and single-leg commute, but it gives us a head start on our bolt across the prairie to the mountains and our appointment with the eclipse.  But…

I’m skittish about this, for obvious reasons.  I was hoping she would be able to become comfortable with decamping-driving-camp setup while I was present, if for no other reason than to provide moral support and peace of mind.  Probably more for me than for her.  It’s not that it’s difficult, it’s just a lot.  And driving through Minneapolis could present challenges that she didn’t get driving through rural Michigan.  But we shall see.

Learning to thrive on the road…

We haven’t come up with a Getting Situated checklist for when we arrive at a new place. Mostly because the only negative consequences for failing to follow proper procedures might mean things take a little longer (= nothing too embarrassing or as life threatening) and, frankly, we haven’t yet been anywhere long enough to warrant pulling out all our gear. I would imagine our checklist would look something like this…

First order of business to get set up in our new space is the outdoor kitchen. All gear hauled out – complete.  Portable grill/burner hooked up to the propane tank – propane off, connected, propane on. Prep table set up – complete. Pull out the tablecloth to cover the site’s picnic table – check. Fish out at least six doo dads to anchor said tablecloth to the table so it doesn’t blow away – complete. Pull out Instant Pot and genuflect before putting it on the picnic table (more on that later) – genuflected and set.

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Outdoor kitchen set up

Second item, plug in to whatever amenities are present. Electricity – plugged in. Fresh water – line plugged in, RV water pump off (don’t need to compete with city water pressure). Sewage pipe connected – check. Cable input (I’m not making this up. We don’t have an appropriate cable yet, but intend to get one soonest – we need to catch up on Game of Thrones…) – check.

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Davista’s business side: from left to right, sewage, electricity, and fresh water hook-ups.

Third task, set up outdoor living room.   Before we left Maryland, we found The Clam. This piece of gear is awesome and the picture below (not the best, I know, but it’s the only one I have just now) is from our “Sea Trial” to Assateague Island earlier this summer.   Essentially The Clam is a portable hexagonal gazebo (with mosquito netting) that provides an outdoor room for us to sprawl into, one that is comfortable in most of weather conditions we plan to encounter. The bonus is that it takes minutes to set up, even without kid assistance. It can be staked in anywhere and I’ve seen many of our fellow campers put theirs right over a campsite’s picnic table. Like I said, awesome. Clam set up – complete. Unroll outdoor rug and bamboo mats to cover floor – check. Set up five camp chairs – set. Hang lanterns in Clam – check. If suitable trees are present, hang double hammocks. Getting Situated Checklist – complete.

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Up to this point we’ve been rolling into our next campsite just about dinnertime. Although we haven’t yet cracked the code on cooking en route (I’ve read that some folks will drive to their next destination with a crockpot bubbling away – !!!), we are doing reasonably well meal planning, especially given limited food storage and sporadic access to Trader Joe’s and Whole Foods, and arrive with a solid dinner plan in place.   Our first night at Van Riper SP was no exception.

After the outdoor kitchen was set up, Flight got the bikes down for the kids who then promptly took off to explore.  He also set up our outdoor living room while I made one of America’s Test Kitchen’s skillet recipes (we are huge fans of Cooks Illustrated). It’s important to note that, as a family of Foodies, part of our being able to thrive on the road has everything to do with enjoying good eats regardless of where we are. I have felt a little guilty when preparing such meals amidst campgrounds thick with the aroma of hot dogs on a stick and “Tacos in a Bag,” but then remind myself this isn’t a weekend foray into the wild – this is our life for the foreseeable future.

Fortunately, it’s been a fairly seamless transition to living in Davista, as far as the kitchen experience goes. We’ve baked Scottish shortbread and delicious brownies in the RV’s standard gas oven (using a small pizza stone directly above the heating element and an oven thermometer has made for consistent and accurate baking experiences – important for those of us whose foodie experience is incomplete without baked goods), grilled many a tasty morsel outside (swordfish tacos anyone?), scrambled eggs and made oatmeal on the stovetop inside (because they’re innocuous smelling enough), and witnessed magic happen in the Instant Pot.

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A relatively thin pizza stone evenly distributes the heat and the thermometer keeps it real.

Because we are space and weight limited (we actually ran out of weight before space – !!!), looking for multi-function tools was an important part of the research phase of this evolution. The Instant Pot was raved about everywhere on line and they had me when I read “7 in 1.”   Settings include vegetable steamer, rice cooker, slow cooker, yogurt maker, warmer, sauté, and pressure cooker. The latter setting allows you to dump in a brick of frozen raw morsels and, with the press of a button, a perfectly cooked meal will present itself in 40 minutes. “What sorcery is this?!” you may ask (I did).  I have no idea how PV = nRT is used to make this so, but I have been blown away (fortunately not literally) by the result.

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Instant Pot Tortilla Soup beats “Tacos in a Bag” any day…

After a delicious dinner and some more bike riding, there was a contented sigh as we settled into our new digs in Van Riper and called it a night. And then the alarm went off, almost before we went to bed. Kids were shuffled into the Outback and tucked in with blankets as we headed to the airport. I can’t speak to Flight’s commute experience this go around, but can tell you the sense of abandonment on my end was far less pronounced when we dropped him off.

Van Riper State Park it is!

So, in the last post I originally melded two days together and wanted to get my story straight.  Our first night in da UP, we stayed in Grimley State Park on the shores of Lake Superior.  Before we departed, the kind camp hosts recommended we stay in Baraga State Park, which is also on Lake Superior, when we let them know of our upcoming plans.  They both gushed about the park’s beauty and access to Copper Harbor, which they assured me was not to be missed.  We had been up late the last few nights doing research and found that there were only two campsites in the UP that had room for us for all six days of Flight’s impending absence: Baraga SP and Van Riper SP.  We had only a few critical qualifications: 1) we had to be close enough to Marquette to get Flight to the airport to commute to Boston early in the morning to start his next trip; 2) be centrally located enough so that the kids and I could reasonably explore the area in his absence; and 3) be more than 1.1 miles from a maximum security prison.  Baraga State Park fell out of the running for failing to meet all three of these requirements and we happily made our reservations at Van Riper State Park.

From Brimley SP, we got underway and, because we hadn’t clearly discussed who was running what part of the checklist, we made a few rookie moves when we omitted a couple of important steps (NB: It’s good to have a “Getting Underway” checklist, yet it is far less effective if you fail to reference it while actually getting underway).  The most embarrassing of these was when I pulled Davista out of our spot (Flight was driving the Toad until we found enough straight roadway to hook them up) to much fanfare from our former neighbors.  I waved and wasn’t sure why they were making such a commotion until I caught “…STILL PLUGGED IN!!” through the window.  Not anymore.  Yep, did that.  Strong work, Navy, strong work.

The second oops wasn’t too bad (or maybe my pride was still stinging from the first one)…  We pulled up to dump the tanks and a kind fellow (also dumping unmentionables but in the next lane over) let me know that one of our vents was open.  We have three vents that crank open for increased airflow, and, when open, the portal covering of each extends about a foot above the top of Davista.  These wind catchers should most certainly be closed while moving or they might be ripped off in the wind and leave gaping holes in the roof (that’s bad).  Roger, use the checklist.  That’s why we have one.  Appropriate tanks dumped, fresh water replenished, and vents closed, we sheepishly pulled out to begin our journey to Van Riper SP.

IMG_3717Our first stop was at Oswald’s Bear Ranch, a location that rescues black bears separated from their mothers too young to make it in the wild or those from families who have taken them in as pets only to be overwhelmed when they outgrow their expectations. Like that of most zoo-like experiences, my reaction to this place alternated between awe (where else are you going to be able to feed and pet a bear cub?) and a touch of sadness as I projected my (human) perception of their plight.   Moving on…

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Don’t know where Firebolt gets her dramatic flair…

We stopped again near Pictured Rocks to give the kids (and me) another look at Lake Superior’s shoreline. We were all surprised and enchanted by the red and very fine sand beaches – I had no idea that lined some of the beaches of Lake Superior. My only visual data point of the Lake Superior’s shores was taken from a puzzle our family had done a couple years ago showing a gorgeous rocky shoreline – I guess the coast line varies widely around the Lake.  Who knew?

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We also did a short hike through the wetlands along a boardwalk and learned about the entire circle of life in that region.  For some reason, after reading The Martian with Flight and then seeing the movie, Keeper has glommed onto striking his interpretation of “The Fonz” pose at every opportunity.

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During the remainder of our trek to our next port visit, Flight and I started second guessing our decision to go to VRSP.  We tried to come up with some specific criteria for staying, but realized we really didn’t have a better option and would just have to make the most of it.  Flight asked if I’d be okay if there was no cell phone coverage in this remote part of the UP, meaning we’d have zero communication during his 6-day absence.  With more bravado certainly than I felt, “Sure – we won’t be at the park all day every day.  We’ll be out exploring. I’m sure we can make it work. And, besides, I can move us to another campground if need be.”  As if.

At last we made our way to Van Riper, noting the turn off to the airport as we’d be seeing that at zero dark thirty the next morning, and breathed a collective sigh of relief.  Our new spot (number (94-2) if you are taking notes) was probably the best one in the campsite.  We were steps away from the new bathhouse, a short bike ride/hike to four different playgrounds (two of which were on the beach), and 4 bars of LTE – WOO HOO!   Flight, you’re cleared for departure…

Great Lake #4

Sorry Ontario, you get no love this trip.

We solved the problem of where to stay for the next 8 days or so.  I believe I’ve mentioned this already, but this is something we’ve not yet entirely gotten the hang of, as we’re not thinking in terms of weekends / weekdays, and aren’t yet comfortable rolling into an unfamiliar area with a “I’m sure we’ll find something” mindset.  We’re hoping that this will be the last time I’ll need to spend 6 days straight (plus commute) gone.  It shouldn’t have happened this time, but I made a bit of a mistake with my trip bidding, and with August being high season for airline flying as well, there’s not a lot of wiggle room for trading out of trips, dropping trips, and the like.  The up side is that I was able to manage 20 hours or so back in Annapolis to check on the house, run a few errands, and collect wayward mail.  The considerable down side is that, with Tacco (and consequently me) not entirely comfortable marshaling the Davista/Toad beast down the highway, we needed to have a place, somewhere near an airport, where she and the kids could hang out productively for a week while I’m gone.  And airports are in short supply in the U.P.  As are campgrounds during high season with a week of availability.

This all sounds somewhat inconsequential as I type and read it, but quite a bit of time and mental energy was expended trying to work this out, and we’re still not certain we have a good solution.  The plan was to stay a night at Brimley State Park on Lake Superior on the Eastern U.P., then drive across to Van Riper State Park semi-near Marquette, where Tacco/kiddos will homestead for a week.  We know nothing about Van Riper, and are a little concerned by the fact that it had so many vacancies when everything else was booked solid.  We’re not even sure there will be cell phone coverage.  At any rate, though, that’s the plan, and we’ve resolved to resolve these types of issues further ahead of time in the future.  Nothing like resolving to resolve — sort of like having a discussion about what we need to discuss…

Michigan continued to delight, scenery-wise.  The drive up Grand Traverse Bay was stunning, with several towns we would’ve liked to stop in and explore awhile.  The picture above is, of course, the Mackinac Bridge (only one “ack” sound in that), which is quite long and spans the strait between Lakes Michigan and Huron.

There was a noticeable difference in landscape between the lower and upper peninsulas.  The upper was much more heavily forested (mostly evergreens) and has a distinct “remote” feel.  We didn’t see too much of it as we headed straight north to Brimley.

Not a bad spot at all.  Dipped our toes in Lake Superior, did our first real campfire / s’mores evolution, and got a great sleep.

One observation, before signing off.  There has, to this point, not been a night when we didn’t fall into bed, shortly after the kids, completely exhausted.  And the perceived “to do” list hasn’t shrunk to the extent I had imagined.  I don’t know how this is possible.  One of the things I was looking forward to during this year was having the time available vs things I need to get done ratio swing radically to the other side.  Time after the kids are in bed to sit outside and write, read, talk, etc.  That hasn’t happened.  This is not a bad thing, in fact the flopping into bed after a full day feels extremely satisfying.  But I’m intrigued by this idea that no matter how much or how little I need (or feel like I need) to get done, I allow it to fill up my free time.  Either we’re just not in the swing of this lifestyle yet and we’re still in the process of reinventing the wheel, or it’s a deeper issue of time management and mindset in general.  I’m looking forward to tackling this.

…and It All Resolves

 

Things look so much better today.  Called the mechanic first thing and he said he’ll have the clutch replaced by the end of the day.  Weather’s gorgeous.  We’re able to stay at the Holly Rec Area, just need to change sites, which is fine because we have to dump/fill the tanks anyway.  After a few more whiffodils to get our car back and get the rental car returned to the airport, we can head north.

Keeper taught Firebolt to whittle in my absence, and I just had to include those pictures up above, because she whittled… a… hm…  what is that exactly?  I feel like I’ve seen something like that in Washington, or maybe Amsterdam.  Anyway, she looks proud, or at least coy.

And this was great, we’ve tried to make pre-breakfast family exercise of a part of our routine, and it turns out Holly Rec has some decent single-track, so Keeper and I grabbed our bikes and hit the trails.  First time this trip, and maybe only the 3rd or so time I’ve gotten to do that with him.  Hard to explain how much my heart swelled when he was gushing about how much he was enjoying riding through the woods.  “Yes, exactly!!”  That’s certainly something I miss about Anacortes (where we used to live in WA), having trails like that so accessible.  Good, easily accessible mountain biking will be a pre-req for our next house.

We also were able to hit the “inflatable park” out in the lake before departure.  TC and Firebolt opted to watch us from the shoreline, but Keeper, Woodsprite, and I had a blast.

I do want to say this about southern Michigan and the Detroit area.  We really enjoyed it.  I have to be honest and say I didn’t really expect that.  The people we met, every one of them, were genuinely kind and helpful.  This stood out.  No fewer than a dozen people stopped to offer help to Tacco and the kiddos when they were stranded at the side of the road.  The police checked on us 4-5 times and offered anything they could.  The mechanic did a fantastic job, and went above and beyond to get the car running again in a day so that we could get rolling.  And on top of that everywhere we’ve been has been borderline gorgeous.  Lakes and forest everywhere, mild weather (other than the occasional thunderstorm), and lots of flowers and wildlife.  There’s even a solid beer geek scene!  I hear the scenery is even better up north; we’re ready to go!

 

Trouble in Motown

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Well this was unexpected.

So my first work trip went smoothly and I was back in Boston, about to board my commuting flight (as a passenger) to Detroit.  It was getting pretty late; my flight was scheduled to land at 10:30PM.  We obviously don’t have a groove yet with respect to getting me to/from the nearest airport when I work, so we’d been discussing how to go about it.  I’m not crazy about the idea of loading the kids into the car to come get me if there’s another option.  This time, however, Tacco had some things she wanted to do with the kids in Detroit, so she offered to hang out a bit later and come swoop me at DTW (you’ll have to excuse me, I tend to use airport codes a lot).  Sure, I thought, why not.

Things started going south when I got a text from Keeper telling me that mom was having a problem with the car — “the clutch is stuck.”  Stuck? Wait, so she can’t drive? “no, it’s OK now, she pulled it out.”  Um, what???  Unfortunately I had to board the plane, so we went into a comms blackout after a few more short, confusing texts, but not before I was able to make contact with Tacco and ensure she was comfortable driving the car, even though I wasn’t liking the sound of things at all.  I far prefer texts to phone calls, but sometimes they just don’t convey things well.

The next text I received, while airborne, and here I need to revisit this idea that I’m having difficulty imagining how we managed to do anything at all before cell phones and texts and in-flight wifi… anyway the next text informed me that the car was completely dead somewhere in Detroit with just about everything I hold most dear in it.  Immovable.  Clutch will not engage.  What’s more, and this was a confusing set of data, particularly since I was trying to put it together via clipped texts in the air while Tacco had her hands beyond full with the kids on the side of the road, the car evidently had been “braking by itself” and had died a few times before giving up the ghost entirely.  Now, if you read some of the other posts you might remember that I had ventured solidly out of my wheelhouse to install a supplemental braking system in the Outback whose job it was to physically apply the brake pedal, and had been patting myself on the back for a job well done.  And now I’m told that my family is stranded somewhere in Detroit with a car that not only had a worthless clutch, but was braking by itself.

This is bad.  Potentially really really bad.  Yet it made no sense.  There’s no connection whatsoever between the clutch and the braking system, how in the world is it possible that they both failed at once?  I kept getting drawn into that rabbit hole while trying (still in flight) to deal with the most important thing, which was to figure out how to get to them.  Tried to make a rental car reservation but the website said they all closed at 11, and we were slightly delayed.  I wasn’t going to make it.  I could Uber to them, but then what?  I’d been texting Keeper with all my questions since TC was busy, but he started answering cryptically and then not at all.  I learned later that he became suspicious when I was asking so much about where they were, and thought someone may have stolen my phone and was trying to get their location.  Excellent, Keeper, love the line of thinking, but I’m sure you could’ve come up with a way to verify my identity…  After getting their location from Tacco, I booked them a hotel room nearby, or so it looked on Google Maps, thinking they could just walk there and get some sleep and I’d deal with the car.  Turns out it was 2 miles away.  And shoot, those brakes!  How?!?

I could go on and on about the mental spinning gears and the chaotic way everything kept unfolding, because it kept going and going and going, but I’ll skip to the end, which was that I finally landed, managed to get a rental car and get to them after all, the USAA towing service took our car to a local mechanic, and we drove back to the campsite, thoroughly exhausted, pulling in at about 1:30AM.  Everything else could wait until the morning.  And once we were actually able to discuss it, we solved the brake/clutch mystery — there was nothing wrong with the brakes.  It was all clutch.  Relief.

Although, while I was relieved to have things settle out, it was clear that we were facing our first semi-major forced change of plans.  We’d planned to drive to either Traverse City or the Upper Peninsula (“da U.P.!”) in morning, now we were stuck in Detroit somewhat indefinitely without a guaranteed place to stay.  We do have family near Lansing, but that’s even farther away from the car and the airport (rental car return) and let’s just say we haven’t yet reached the level of comfort to rise to a Christmas Vacation level of imposition.  “Hey!  You don’t mind if we drive up today and park our RV and car in your driveway a while do ya?”  Though we may get there…

Final thoughts on this one.  We got off light.  Things never spun off into extremis, but I was beginning to be able to see it from where we were.  One dead cellphone to shut off comms, a less auspicious place to break down, more serious equipment failure, severe weather, an actual accident…  it’s making us think about applying a bit more forethought and “what if?” planning to our times when the two parents are in different parts of the country.  You know, like we used to do before we counted on all our “stuff” working as advertised and being able to contact anyone and everyone instantaneously.  Whether we would’ve even attempted this trip without that level of connectivity is another question altogether.

 

 

And Flight goes to do that pilot thing…

Dawn Patrol to Michigan, iPhone navigation notwithstanding, presented a different set of challenges for those who didn’t immediately fly out to Boston to start a work trip.  The whole departure evolution has been a bit surreal – we’re actually doing this trip after years of talking smack about it.  !!!  Maybe the hypnagogic aspect was compounded by the few hours of sleep I managed in the days prior to our actual departure.  Flight had a quick turnaround in the Detroit area (no kidding, 30 minutes to check into the campsite, disconnect and ready the TOAD to drive, back Davista in, level, and plug her into the site’s power supply (but, alas, no fresh water), before changing clothes, confirming suitcase contents, and getting all five members of our flight team into the car to go to the airport).  We managed to accomplish the whole checklist to get set up at the Holly Recreation Area State Park, a lovely spot to break in the solo adventure, and get Flight to DTW for an on-time departure.

A professional pilot of 26 (?!) years, Flight has jumped into Davista’s manual with both feet and crawled all over (and under) our new landcraft becoming well versed in all her operating systems, upping his game in fixing each piece of gear that breaks while in transit.  I have not, um, made that educational process a priority – I was busy making face care products and duvet covers – and was woefully unprepared to assume command of Davista, even while she was docked at the pier.

I had a momentary surge of panic as we pulled away from the Delta curb.  Maybe it was the lingering suggestion Flight made before we left Holly.  Upon noticing our fresh water tank was only 1/3 full, he offered: “You can just pull around the loop and connect to the fresh water source a few campsites back to fill the tank.  Keeper can show you how to do it.”  Um, no.  I think the first time I take Davista for a spin, especially one that involves picking our way through a camp site, and top anything off (how many tanks do we even have?!), I probably shouldn’t be supervised by only our 11 year old, as exceptional as he is.

My solution was to buy gallon jugs of drinking water on our way back (totally at peace with that…).  Bandaid applied to that problem…  The next item of business was getting the outdoor kitchen set up.  We have a pretty sweet set-up outside, necessitated by the lack of ventilation near the inside galley stove (don’t need my everything (wardrobe, towels, linens, furniture, etc.) to reek of bacon).  We have a small prep table and a gas drill that is tapped directly into the propane line (one of the first modifications to Davista Flight made – brilliant!).  I vaguely remembered Flight’s instructions to plug the stove in and held my breath as I lit it for the first time.  WOO HOO – and at least I was able to feed our kids.

We spent our days exploring Holly and even ventured into the greater Detroit area to explore and visit with friends.  We were getting into a groove and I was eager to share my growing comfort level with this crazy notion we’d jumped into, until our TOAD acted up as we were on our way to collect Flight from a late night arrival at DTW.  You can check that experience out here…