Lagniappe

As I learned at the Jean Lafitte NHP, here’s just a little something extra to add on our last full day all together in New Orleans…

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After knocking out a full day of studies, we picked Flight up at the airport in the early afternoon and headed back into The French Quarter.  Since we enjoyed lunch before coming to collect him, I suggested he grab a quick bite at the airport as we were en route.  From the airport we headed straight to the French Quarter. After a quick debrief precipitated by Flight throwing out a few suggestions and my replying “Oh, we did that yesterday…” we parked the car and, not sure of where to start, wandered over to check out the docked Steamboat Natchez, which was about to get underway. For a three-hour tour.

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Kidding, it was only two.

And it was the perfect opportunity to relax, see the French Quarter from a distance, learn a bit about the mechanics of a steamboat, get some traditional beans and rice, hear some jazz (the girls couldn’t help but dance), and sort out what we were going to do before we departed for Pensacola, which I hadn’t quite realized (and wouldn’t for about another day) was in less than 40 hours.

I had done some research and learned that NOLA would be celebrating her 300-year anniversary, complete with a floating museum of tall-ships coming into port that evening.

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Although it would have been great to get over to see the tall-ships in person, it was enough to see a couple of them at anchor from the steamboat’s shifting vantage point.  Observing the city gearing up for celebration, my inner 22-year old wanted to take in NOLA in full party finery, but my mama bear instinct realized that was probably unwise.

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We did manage to introduce our kids to the art of eating beignets.  I have very distinct memories of several all out powdered sugar fights at Café du Monde that I may or may not have started been drawn into and thought we should go easy on the kids.  The carnage wasn’t too bad.

Flight and I ordered together, as we often do, when we enjoyed an early dinner at the New Orleans Creole Cookery (= “city food” with tomatoes).

I stuck with the standard fare and got another sampling dish and Flight ordered oysters, it was the perfect taste of NOLA.  As sunset is about the right time for kids to move out of the French Quarter, we repaired to Davista to pack up for relocation to the heart of the Vieux Carré following school in the morning.

As the kids were finishing up school, Flight and I walked about the campsite to check out the gator traps cabins perched above gator lairs.

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All I could think imagine was having one of those enormous reptiles waddle up the plank to snack on the nicely contained morsels sleeping within.  I’m good with the nice half-mile buffer to the campground, thank you.

We were slow to leave our last location having had plenty of The French Quarter for the last few days, but somehow I didn’t equate time spent at our Bayou Segnette spot as time taken away from our last hurrah in the New Orleans.  In retrospect, that should have been obvious, but, much to Flight’s occasional exasperation, I never really have had a solid grasp on the passing of time.

Our new address was smack dab in the middle of the French Quarter, one that was safe enough to walk to and from, in the daylight, anyway, “but you should plan to Uber at night” according to the campground host. parked right next to a cemetery.  For those of you who are not familiar, the water table is pretty close to ground level, which means that any serious rain would transform traditional graves into the last scenes of Poltergeist.  It was a little eerie to look out our bedroom window and see an expanse of nothing but crypts and mausoleums.  I should have taken a picture, but, regretfully, didn’t think to do so.

We finally sauntered into town just shy of 3 pm and zipped right by Bourbon St for obvious reasons. Now that I had backup, I told Flight I wanted to catch the Historical Pharmacy Museum and was able to pop in almost free of children.  Almost.

WoodSprite assured me she was just as keen as I to learn about making Absinthe and ghastly versions of rhinoplasty used to restore functional noses to those stricken with advanced syphilis, so she joined me on my pilgrimage to honor ancient medicine.

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Yikes.

Fear not, those pictures were in glass cases that required at least a five-foot vantage point, so WoodSprite departed that establishment without those dreamy images to fill her head.  Actually, there was quite a bit to this little museum and I would love to go back for a longer visit without the added, “Hey, Momma, how much longer?” interruptions.  Next time.

We rejoined Flight and the older two in Jackson Square and we turned towards the French Market in search of trinkets and an early dinner.  As Flight mentioned, the market was quite an experience for Keeper, but we departed only with two name bracelets made for the girls and, sadly, sans fedora.

Dinner, however, was surprisingly good. Flight got his boudin fix and the only other open offering was a crèperie, which fed the other four of our herd.

As they were sweeping up around us, we mobilized to show the kids more of the Vieux Carré.  After getting shut out at Pat O’Brien’s on our way to the French Market (What do you mean we can’t bring our kids into a bar to get hurricanes?), we thought we’d take in some serious jazz and sauntered over to Preservation Hall only to find those in the 90-minute line straining to hear a preview of their evening’s entertainment.

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Flight and I realized that probably wouldn’t do and, unsuccessfully, sought out the next slice of NOLA to share.   Flight and I came to the same “What exactly are we trying to accomplish here?” moment simultaneously and steered our gaggle back to Davista, a little baffled at our belated disillusionment.

While the monkeys immersed themselves in digital worlds, Flight and I grabbed some adult beverages and slipped outside to debrief our New Orleans time in the fading sunlight. Due to our inability to communicate and hash out our respective ideal plans prior to executing Operation Big Easy, we came to the conclusion that there were plenty of things outside the French Quarter we would could should have done to truly experience living in the bayou. Recognizing the Woulda Coulda Shoulda Game is never a productive undertaking, our two take aways were this: ultimately we did a reasonable job of exposing the kids to the PG version of our NOLA memory playlist, hopefully piquing curiosity for further exploration much, MUCH later down the road and, as always, solid communication remains paramount in every successful campaign.  May we keep every mindful of this debrief and practice our lessons learned.

But first, anyone for a Diesel Fuel at Flounder’s?

Le Vieux Carré

New Orleans brings to mind two very distinct collections of memories.  The first dates from the few times I made it over to the Big Easy from Pensacola while in training to become a naval aviator over twenty years ago. The second from my three weeks in Officer Recruiting Officer training that was held at the Navy’s Belle Chasse Department of Redundancy Department a mere 15 years ago.  Most noteworthy is that both memory-gathering eras were before kids.  Much of what little I knew of New Orleans was through the eyes of a much younger person unfettered by the joys of parenting, which meant I didn’t plan this visit accordingly.  This sign kinda summed up my previous vision.

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And somehow I didn’t know to recognize that disconnect until we pulled chocks and rolled on to Pensacola.  Sigh…

New Orleans is a vibrant town whose reputation I understood to center on its laissez faire attitude.  Although the city itself is a beautiful compilation of the varied influences of the many different people who have called this area home, I think it is the shifting identity of “creole” that is the basis of this attitude.  I’ll get to what it is to be creole shortly, but first, a few highlights of what was in my greatest hits memory playlist to share with our kids.  The French Quarter topped the list for sure, as that’s where we’d find the perfect mix of all that NOLA is known for – a little Jazz, a hurricane or two, beignets at Café du Monde, street musicians.  What kid wouldn’t want to be exposed to that?

Right?

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Right.

Hmm.  Not unlike Las Vegas, there is a wide range of how one might experience New Orleans, all of which you can’t unsee, and so the plan evolved into how best to do so without scarring our kids unnecessarily.  Looking back, we had planned our time in Texas quite well, meaning Flight and I discussed very specifically what we were cleared to do while the other was out of town, saving things we both wanted to enjoy as our flight of five for when we were all together again.  Not only did we neglect to have that critical conversation before we moved Davista into the city, only steps away from the French Quarter the night before we moved on to Pensacola, but our individual ill-conceived visions for sharing the past with our kids were strikingly similar, which meant we perhaps overdid the French Quarter and didn’t see much of everything else. Shame on us.

So, let me back up our arrival and Flight’s departure for his work trip.  When we departed Houston and blew by the road to Galveston, I was astonished to learn the combined Houston/Galveston metropolitan area boasts the fourth highest population in the U.S.  !!! It would not be my preference to plant my flag in the line of annual hurricane wreckage, but apparently a lot of people do.

As Flight was at Davista’s controls, the flight path to New Orleans was his to choose.  We mostly hugged the shoreline, and my meteorological assessment of this neck of the Gulf Coast proved spot on as we wound our way through small town after small town with all buildings of consequence on stilts.

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I had previously seen houses in flood zones so perched, but was surprised to see a high school campus on stilts.

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At last we arrived at the Bayou Segnette State Park.  I initially had some reservations about this location, but our site proved a lovely little corner from which we could strike in any direction.  A bonus was seeing whatever flora and fauna was out and about as we strolled along the raised boardwalk to get to and from the bathhouse. We saw an abundance of turtles, ripe mulberries (which Flight and I each sampled whenever passed through, much to the dismay of Keeper and Firebolt (WoodSprite actually tried one but decided they weren’t her favorite) whose anxiety was not eased as we repeated nearly verbatim our SERE training on berries), and thankfully only one snake.

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Shortly after our arrival, we managed an early dinner, some chalk artwork, and rolled to the airport.

 

We dropped Flight off on Sunday evening and had to fend for ourselves until we collected him three days later.  The following morning, after many hours of strong work devoted to dawdling school, I saw the wisdom of staying put for the afternoon to regroup before we headed to the French Quarter.  I made the opportunity to review the two National Park Service sites that are only blocks away from each other and tentatively put them on the calendar to check out on different days.

Despite their proximity, there was a night and day difference between the two National Park institutions.  The Jean Lafitte National Historical Park and Preserve is a conglomeration of six sites and headquartered on Decatur St, one of the main drags through the French Quarter. There was also a daily Ranger presentation scheduled every morning at 0930.  Typically we will try to knock out academic business in the morning, sometimes modified sometimes not, before we use the afternoons to explore the local environs.  Primarily based on the scheduled Ranger talk I thought we should hear, we made the whole day a field trip day and headed into New Orleans proper at a most unreasonable hour.

Most fortuitously, and likely due to the early hour, we readily found parking and made it to the Visitor Center with four minutes to spare.

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After a brief introduction on the title of the collection of NPS sites falling under the Jean Lafitte NHP (“I have a hard time with this site being named for a notorious pirate…”), the Ranger gave a solid history on the development of New Orleans and all the flags that have flown above her constantly shifting boundaries.  What I hadn’t realized is that in the wake of LaSalle’s exploration of the Mississippi, the travel route from what is now Quebec to La Louisiane (named for then King Louis XIV) opened up, further compounding the influence of far reaching empires.  In fact, a large part of what now makes up the local Cajun population is rooted in Acadian transplants (les Acadiens became the truncated “Cajun”) who, after being forcibly removed from their homes, traveled down the river from NE Canada. WoodSprite’s greatest take away from the talk was “Don’t treat people who work for you bad or they might kill you.” Apparently, LaSalle was notoriously unpleasant to his crew and, after several failed ventures (we’re talking on the scale of sunken ships and being shipwrecked 500 miles away from the intended destination), his minions mutinied and killed him.  Zoinks!

After the Ranger’s presentation, we collected the Junior Ranger books and the girls got to work. Overall, this was the most depressing NPS Visitor Center we have visited.  The Junior Ranger books were sloppy copies and many of the audio exhibits for listening to variations in local dialects and juxtaposing different music styles that have their roots in New Orleans, which I certainly would have enjoyed hearing, were out of service.

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Even the Ranger who administered the oath to the girls looked as though she had just come straight out of a week in the field at the Barataria Preserve. On a positive note, we still learned a ton about both the Creole and Cajun cultures.

I had always understood “Creole” to be the nebulous descriptor for anyone who called the bayou country home. Not so.  The term Creole has gone through several iterations in its meaning over the years.  With its roots in South America, the term originally meant “native-born,” and was used as a means of identifying the native population from European transplants. Creole then morphed to include children of mixed racial descent and/or those who have French or Spanish blood. The best description of current usage I found comes from Louisiana historian Fred B. Kniffin, in Louisiana: Its Land and People, who stated Creole “has been loosely extended to include people of mixed blood, a dialect of French, a breed of ponies, a distinctive way of cooking, a type of house, and many other things. It is therefore no precise term and should not be defined as such.”  Well, that clears things up.

Despite having no more solid a grasp on what it means to be Creole, my inner foodie was excited to see there was a discussion of the difference between Creole and Cajun cuisine.   In the loosest terms, the former tends to refer to “city food” and the latter to “back country” eats, however those terms are becoming interchangeable in the mainstream culinary circles.  Or so I read at the Visitor Center.  I have since learned that one of the prime discriminators between the two may be tomatoes, as Creole cooking uses them and Cajun does not, but not even that is a strict definition.  The two styles of cooking reflect the unique identities of the people who have added to them over the years.  The resourceful Cajun practice of using every bit of an animal and layering seasoning throughout its creation is very different from the Creole cuisine that developed more wide-ranging flavors steeped in the aristocratic tradition of having access to more exotic ingredients.  I thoroughly enjoy both styles and was delighted to sample some of each, which brings me to our next unplanned evolution.

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Our Junior Rangers were sworn in at 11:30ish and the Ranger encouraged us to make our way to the New Orleans Jazz NHP to catch the free jazz concert at noon.  There would be another concert down the street at 2 pm featuring a band of Rangers who were all Jazz Musicians.  After contemplating what kind of a threshold our children had for National Park venues as the lunch hour was nearly upon us, I proposed this compromise: let’s go pick up the new Junior Rangers books, listen to some of the concert and then get some lunch.  The kids were game so we trundled off to other NPS site, collected new activity books that were no more challenging, and sat down to hear some Jazz.  Much of this light, airy Visitor Center was taken up by a small performance hall with a goal of telling the story of this very important part of New Orleans history through experiencing the music.

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Now I will admit I came to this session entirely uneducated in the mechanics of jazz save knowing there’s a lot of improvisation that goes on throughout sets, which usually starts with blending the sounds of all the musicians first, working through solo opportunities for each instrument, and then coming together again in a finale of sorts.  I knew nothing of jazz piano, except that my uncle loves to play Dixieland jazz and I’ve only had the opportunity to hear him once or twice.

We were fortunate to have Richard Scott (see above photo) as our high noon solo entertainer.  He spoke about the birth and evolution of Jazz and infamous piano player Jelly Roll Morton’s, well, role in that changing musical discipline, all the while playing examples of what he had just discussed.  He gave a fantastic description of playing “Stride” jazz, where a piano player takes on the role of three different musicians to play a melody, a base line, and the in between harmony.  Because a pianist is usually limited to two hands, the base hand walks or strides between the base keys and those hammering out the harmony.  I have to say it was far more impressive to hear him play and improvise knowing a little more about all that goes into such a production.  You can learn more about the New Orleans Jazz NHP here.

Exhibiting uncharacteristic patience, our kids did brilliantly with this experience.  I knew to cut our time short than overstay their threshold for learning and have them give in to mounting sass driven by gnawing bellies. We quietly excused ourselves and meandered down to the Royal House Oyster Bar where all the kids all tried fried alligator.

 

While the girls are still eager to rely on the familiar offerings of kids’ menus, Keeper is quite pleased to order from the regular offerings.  He surprised all of us, especially our waiter, by ordering the blackened redfish, which was delicious.  I enjoyed sampling his meal more than my Taste of New Orleans that featured jambalaya, crawfish etouffée, and gumbo.

While we were awaiting our meals, the girls finished up their NO Jazz Junior Ranger workbooks and after dining we popped back over to have their work evaluated to earn their newest badges.

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We took a rather serpentine route through the French Quarter to find our car and I realized there were so many places I wanted to further investigate, but that likely wouldn’t happen on this trip.  Although, really, how scary might some voodoo stuff be especially for the 8 and under crowd?  Exactly.

I knew Flight wanted to introduce our kids to beignets and so avoided Café du Monde.  Instead we sampled some other New Orleans goodies and passed through the French Market at a steady clip.  On our way we found pralines for all my friends.  Happily double-badged and sweet-tooth pacified, our girls were delighted to call our French Quarter experience good.  Keeper, however, started feeling nauseous on the way back to Davista.  His system was overwhelmed by the rich food combined with the sugar hit.  Poor guy.

As always, I was thrilled we’d be collecting Flight the following morning.  In general, and as one might expect, this journey is so much easier with my life’s partner present, but keeping track of our gaggle together through the French Quarter was especially stressful and I was relieved we’d be returning to the 2-on-3 zone defense.  After a quick Instant Pot dinner (for everyone but Keeper, still woozy he abstained), I sorted out the kids’ respective school agendas for the morning and didn’t think much beyond what time we had to depart for the airport before crashing out.  My last coherent thoughts were vaguely centered on wondering what we’d do tomorrow with Flight as we’d covered a lot of Vieux Carré ground already today…

More on that in the next post…

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Houston, We Have A Problem…

There are gators.  On walk about.  In Houston.  I thought gators were conscious of not crossing state lions with illegal porpoises (that’s punch line of a terrible joke I once heard, I’ll spare you…) and mindfully kept to Florida.  Not so. Our accommodations in Houston boasted one benefit, and pulling the kayaks out to paddle about the non-swimming hole (aka “the lake” as in the Willow Lake RV Resort) was not it.  I took a stroll around the lake and learned it was not a place to kayak or swim.

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Duly noted.

What was befuddling, was the use of the additional signage about a quarter mile down:

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I though maybe posting a “Beware of Gators – Please do not feed the wildlife” sign would have been sufficient because the unwritten follow on “with yourself” immediately came to mind. But perhaps the lawyers were unwilling to allow Darwinism to potentially streamline our gene pool, lest any hypothetical survivors of any alleged gator attacks try to sue.

In preparation for our stop at the Houston Space Center, Flight watched Apollo 13 with the kids while I was in DC for my Navy Reserve work.  As we rolled into the RV resort, Firebolt sidled up to the driver’s seat and offered up, “Houston, we have a problem.  We are out of toilet paper.”  I turned around to ask, “Seriously?” when she giggled and said, “Just kidding! I just wanted to say ‘Houston, we have a problem.’”

That kid is as witty as they come.  Meanwhile, her jesting brought about immediate flashbacks to last August when liberal use of that precious resource (specifically created for rapid decomposition in marine and RV usage) had temporarily clogged our black water tank and we had to creatively flush it using a dump station hose fed through the window above Woodsprite’s bed and into the open commode to force out the lingering clumps of yet-to-deteriorate TP.  Fortunately, we were able to unclog the mass of tissue collecting in the tank, which necessitated implementing the general* rule “No more than six squares per visit.  Total.”  (*Okay, okay, wipe until you’re clean, but please don’t us half a roll in the process as you might break our house…)

I had known our RV-specific TP supply was running low and already briefed the kids that we were on ration status until we could procure more, but didn’t think we were yet at General Quarters.  I have come to learn that lack of TP is nearly as mission critical as a free-flowing black water tank.  I wonder how they handle that at the International Space Station.  Do they use Charmin?  Never mind, I saw The Martian

Our only full day in Houston was spent paying homage to NASA’s efforts, which was the singular benefit to staying here as it was nearby:

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Although entry to the museum is free, the thing to do is the 90-minute tram tour that has three stops across the NASA Houston complex and that thing, sadly, is not free, not even for Navy Space Cadre personnel (Flight suggested it’s because I haven’t yet learned the secret handshake).

Before we jumped on the sightseeing tram, we spent some time touring the museum.  We practiced our docking skills at the International Space Station.

We had a physics discussion and practiced weightlifting on different planets of varying gravitational pull.

We saw where they faked the moon landing.

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Kidding! Everyone knows they used a sound stage in Area 51.

We counted our blessings that my Naval Flight Officer path was cut short before entertaining getting into any of these tiny capsules.

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Okay, maybe that was only me.

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When I saw the below mockup of a space station, all I could think about was how vertigo inducing space travel would be for me and how it would be about two hours sans gravity before I went cray-cray.

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I’m happy to know two astronauts, am glad they are excited about what they do, and even more delighted to know my Space Cadre role relegates me to a desk (I think).

Our budding scientist was equally excited (can’t you tell?) to see the elemental breakdown of the moon’s soil composition.

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Once we’d canvassed the museum, we made our way to the tram-line and waited through innumerable games of “Cowboys” before we boarded our chariot.

Our first stop was at Mission Control Center.  Firebolt was pretty stoked to see Mission Control, and upon entering immediately observed, “Wait, I’ve seen this before – this was in Apollo 13!”  WoodSprite was less excited about all the stairs and waiting.

After leaving Mission Control, we were taken to see the astronaut training center full of stationary mock-ups of all sorts of space gear.

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Center front was this contraption, which I was pleased to see was named for the mighty hunter, Orion.

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The woman who briefed us at Mission Control told us that the Orion was bound for Mars in a few decades and that would be piloted by astronauts who are now six to eight years old (that got our girls’ attention!), whereas the future Mission Commander is probably now 12. Keeper perked up at that tidbit as well. Always keen to support STEM activities, I was delighted to see that NASA was hosting a FIRST Robotics competition at the other end of the training facility.

The last stop on the tour was to see the rocket hangar.

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It’s tricky to truly understand the magnitude of these beasts until one actually sees them, and especially mind-blowing to note how small the actual vessels are compared to the engines and fuel tanks that serve to propel them into space.  Firebolt posed with one like the five engines that were used in stage one to get SATURN V into orbit.

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Each engine fires for only 2.5 minutes before burning through all the accompanying fuel and separates from the main pod.  !!!

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To put it in perspective…  These things are ginormous.

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Through our time at NASA’s Houston Complex, I was reassured that I am not a good candidate for exploring the final frontier, as neither an astronaut nor a rocket scientist. Once we got to the car, our kids enjoyed sharing a package of Astronaut Ice Cream and I had a few moments to reflect on our brief peek behind the outer space curtain.  Listening to the kids compare taste sensations while savoring their freeze-dried morsels and wonder aloud about potential culinary choices during space travel, I recognized how happy I am to instead cultivate the grass right here.

Tagging Out in Texas

The Texas landscape subtly shifted as we drove east from Guadalupe Mountains National Park, from the open desert into the lusher Hill Country.  I hadn’t really been focusing on our overnight in the Hill Country or the following stretch in Austin, because I would be gone for four days of our Texas time to return only to tag out with Flight so he could go on a trip.

After our departure from GMNP, we stayed in Pedernales Falls State Park for just one night.  We explored the local Pedernales River before grabbing one of our only dinners all together at The Salt Lick.  I was happy to stay dry, maybe dipping my toes in the river, while the rest of the family went all in.  Almost literally.

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Flight and Keeper found the perfect rock from which to experience the newly popular spa treatment of having fish eat dead skin from their feet.  I was able to try this out while we were in Cabo just after New Year’s and, frankly, it weirded me out.

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I did okay with the experience until the wee fish swam in between my toes and then I had to resist the urge to yank my feet out of the buffet line.

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Flight and Keeper almost giggled in response to that same sensation with their feet dangling in the river.  I shook off the willies as I remembered that feeling as it most certainly exceeded my comfort level.  At least they weren’t paying to be weirded out…

After a relaxing afternoon spent by the river, we packed up and returned to the campsite to change out of swimsuits before grabbing our first Texas BBQ.  This well-worn menu captures The Salt Lick’s uncomplicated essence.

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Two things this menu doesn’t mention: they were out of bison (bummer) and you have to specify what variety of BBQ you’d prefer from burnt, lean, and moist.  We ordered some of each among Keeper, Flight, and me, and I preferred the burnt offerings.

The moist was too much and the lean simply wasn’t enough.  Just what quality I’m describing, I’m sure I don’t know.  Nor do I speak the technical jargon, but I preferred the crispy burnt morsels the best.

The next morning, the family ran me over to the Austin airport and I flew back to DC for my Navy drill weekend.  My drill weekend last fall had most certainly thrown me for a loop and I was curious to see if I would have a similar visceral reaction to being back in the house. I knew I wouldn’t be there too much longer than the hours I would be sleeping, and made the opportunity to see family and a friend or two during my few unscheduled waking hours.

Fortunately my time in Maryland wasn’t nearly as traumatic as the last go around and I think that can mostly be attributed to our collective understanding that we would not be returning to resume our lives there.  I was able to collect a few wayward items forgotten in our hasty departure and return outgrown clothes, completed books, and other superfluous items.

Drill weekend passed uneventfully, although I had a general pit in my stomach while away from my family.  I attribute my unease to missing three sizable appendages. I have easily become accustomed to being around my kids 24/7 and felt their absence most acutely.  I know that despite sometimes longing for some alone time I will look back on our travels as a sweet spot in our growth as a family.

While I was in Maryland, I made it a point to visit with my Academy roommate and her family.  Lunch with her was one of the appointments I had to cancel to depart our house earlier than anticipated as we redeployed to Davista.  Their teenage son is a budding chef and I got to watch him make Phad Thai for our dinner, which was exceptional.  I also popped over to visit our cousins and our Aunt who was in town visiting them.

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My last day in Maryland was actually pretty exciting as I got to cross something off my bucket list when I climbed the Naval Academy Chapel Dome.

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The climb mostly involved crawling though the bowels of the magnificent Chapel dome, which is really a dome within a dome and at one point I felt as though I was scaling the interior of a chimney.

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Seriously.

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Intently ignoring the odd ways I contorted myself along the trek, I was rewarded with a most spectacular view at the top.

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I was thrilled to have made the climb with a dear friend from my Academy teaching days.

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I popped into the Midshipman Store before leaving the Yard and ran into a friend and classmate from back in the day.

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Her husband had just taken orders to teach at the Academy and their son is getting ready to graduate next month before going to nuclear power school to become a submariner. As our oldest is in 6thgrade, contemplating his college graduation is pretty mind blowing.  I dashed off to one more meeting at the Acupuncture Clinic at Joint Base Andrews (they have one – how cool is that?!) before sprinting to catch my flight.

And then I was back home with my family.  The unease I felt during my absence instantly melted away once I rejoined them outside the Austin airport.  As Flight would need to commute to Boston the next night, we made plans to enjoy our one full day in Austin en famille.

The day started with road-schooling activities while camping outside of Franklin BBQ.

In the middle of our schooling, a kind fellow from Franklin’s came down the line asking for general orders to ensure there would be enough of the BBQ to go around.  Although I do not claim to be a BBQ aficionado, Franklin’s was, hands-down, the very best I have ever eaten.  It was crazy good.  Perfectly tender, flavorful, every variety (moist, lean, and crispy) was scrumptious.

Happily sated stuffed, we drove to Barton Springs to while away the afternoon perched on the banks of a local swimming hole.

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One of the things I enjoy most about our travels is seeing how locals take advantage of where they live to recreate.  Arriving in the early afternoon, Barton Springs was populated with a wide range of bathers.  The spring fed lagoon was awash with a handful of serious swimmers, identifiable by their sleek caps and goggles, mechanically churning out lap after lap in the elongated pool.

Throughout the pool there were also plenty of waders, like our family, whose intent was far less measured and simply delighted in the refreshing cold water.

Keeper even dove off the diving board a few times.  That’s my son!

All said, it was a perfect Austin day, sadly without any bats.  Because we had to run Flight to the airport to commute to Boston, we saved witnessing the bat exodus from the Congress St. Bridge for another night. Sorry, Flight, no bats for you.

Our first day in Texas sans Flight was actually spent in San Antonio (and you can read all about that experience here), which meant we didn’t see the bats until our last night in Austin.  Everyone talks about seeing the bats, so we put that on our Austin to do list.  While I was in Maryland, Flight moved campgrounds twice, the first of which I never even laid eyes on.  The second was in McKinney Falls State Park, which was a quiet place tucked into the south side of Austin, very near the airport.  We spent our morning schooling at the campsite and then made the pilgrimage to the Congress Street Bridge in time to see the bats take flight.

The BatCon (that’s actually a thing) website suggested viewing times between 7 and 8:15 pm. Because I didn’t want to miss the opportunity, we showed just before 7 and claimed a spot on the south side of the river with our well-traveled blanket.  Since I didn’t know how long the bats would take to launch or when they might begin, I was happy to let the kids pass the time playing on their respective screens while I retreated to reading a book.

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As much as I prefer to feel the crisp pages of books as I read, I have to say it is very convenient, especially given our space and weight limitations, to be able to carry my current reading library on my iPhone.

The bats didn’t make their appearance until 8:13 pm.  They emerged in a steady stream of spastic wings, incredibly without a single midair collision. I was reminded of a video I had seen of an enormous flock of starlings turning about in the sky.  At least they could see.  !!!  That the 1.5 million fruit bats were able to accomplish the same close formations without the benefit of visual cuing was incredible to witness.  A perfect manifestation of swarm theory and, clearly, WoodSprite thought the same.

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Kidding!  She did watch the bats take flight.  I wasn’t able to get a good picture of their departure, but found this spectacular shot online.

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From Cushman and Wakefield blog…

Keeper and Firebolt both made the observation that it was not unlike waiting for the total eclipse to happen, maybe a little uninspiring during the anticipation of the experience, but, once manifested, well worth our time.  Similarly, I wasn’t sure what to expect with our time in the Lone Star State, but found that, in retrospect, it heartily exceeded our (my?) expectations.

Air Force Training, SIR!

The last time I was in San Antonio was almost 23 years ago when I was in the midst of Advanced Flight Training held at Randolph Air Force Base, and, at the end of which, I earned my Wings of Gold. As we were fond of saying then, it was six weeks of Navy training crammed into six months of Army Air Force training, SIR!, which left plenty of time to explore the area.  All the military services have good-natured (mostly) rivalry that often points to the subtle differences among them and this cartoon I found online pretty much sums it up.

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To distinguish how the Navy and the Air Force operate differently, our class was briefed by one of our Navy instructors on day one at Randolph.  He said something to the effect of “The Air Force tends to provide you a well-indexed, voluminous tome that in great detail defines what you can and cannot do whereas the Navy will toss you a pamphlet listing in bullet format what’s really unacceptable and then gives you the freedom to sort how to best accomplish the task at hand.”  My brief time in Air Force Training Land demonstrated the veracity of that assessment time and time again, which often translated to considerably less pressure while learning the art of long-range navigation by air.  Almost unimaginably, this skill set included learning how to take sextant shots, both day and night, from a moving aircraft to practice celestial navigation, which, sadly, has become a lost art.  After the intensity of Navy Primary Flight School in Pensacola, my whole class of fellow Navy Ensigns was thrilled to throttle back a little and luxuriate in the Air Force way.

With relatively more down time, many of our class stepped out a few times together to check out the Alamo and eat along The Riverwalk, because that’s what you do in San Antonio. Impish at heart, I rather enjoyed rattling some of my classmates, especially those who espoused local history (some almost religiously), by feigning my ignorance of key events that transpired south of the Mason-Dixon Line, “The Alamo?  Wait, wasn’t there, like, a big fight there?  And I think John Wayne was there…”   In response, one of my classmates from the heart of Georgia observed, “Aw, (TACCO), you’re all ate up with the Yank, aintcha?”  Not sure what to make of that, I said, “Um, thank you?” He imperceptibly shook his head, paused before answering and gently said, “Uh.  Naw,” letting me know that his assessment of me had dropped yet another notch by failing to comprehend the depth of the southern insult.

Frankly, more than twenty some odd years later, I’m still not quite sure what that turn of phrase means, but I’m fairly certain it’s not good.

I was adopted by my first dog (a German Shepherd puppy named Lancelot) half way through my training at Randolph, which meant I “stayed in” for most of my later months as most of my free time was consumed by logging countless hours walking Lancelot to ensure I had relatively uninterrupted sleep or chasing him down as he tried to eat my navigation charts.  Lancelot had this weird thing for paper – and eating rocks. But I digress…

While my time in San Antonio wasn’t particularly memorable, aside from getting winged and collecting fodder for future dog shaming posts, I thought it important to share at least The Alamo and The Riverwalk with our kids.  Flight, having been wholly underwhelmed by his few visits to San Antonio during his stint in Corpus Christi for his own Advanced Flight Training, assured me he was just fine missing that particular pilgrimage so we planned for it while he was on a trip.

After a solid Wednesday morning of homeschooling, the kids and I loaded into the car and drove the 90 minutes to San Antonio.  Before we got on our way, I learned that, as the nickname would suggest, the “Mission City” boasts an extensive mission network that has been turned over to the care of the National Park Service.  While I had known what had led to the rallying cry of “Remember the Alamo!” I hadn’t realized that what remains today of the Alamo was originally built as a Spanish stronghold, a presidio, to support further colonization.

When our nation was still just a collection of European colonies, each trying to outpace the others in expansion efforts, the Spanish crown was interested in growing their empire in both population and property and came up with an ingenious plan. Recognizing that these symbiotic efforts were best accomplished together, they first acquired new citizens who would then lay claim to (and pay taxes on!) land that broadened Spain’s boundaries. In order to become a Spanish citizen, there were three main hoops through which the native population had to jump: 1) learn enough Spanish and Latin to effectively communicate and observe Mass; 2) convert to Catholicism, a requisite for Spanish citizenship; and 3) learn a trade to contribute to society at the lowest level of the Spanish caste system.  Before these potential citizens could be so transformed, it was necessary to establish a local military stronghold to protect the crown’s investments.  In 1718, what is now The Alamo was the initial presidio from which the massive conversion campaign was launched through now central Texas, and four other mission sites branched out along the San Antonio River.

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We spent most of our time at the San José Mission, which is where the National Park Service has their Visitor Center.

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After picking up Junior Ranger books for the girls there, we emerged from the introductory film just in time to join a Ranger-led tour, which was especially noteworthy.  We were led about the compound on an hour-long journey where we were introduced to the initial various inhabitants of the mission and their respective roles therein.

The tour was very well done and I especially appreciated hearing both the European and the native population’s sides on how it all went down in the early 1700s.  The native hunting and gathering tribes throughout what is now Southern Texas and Northeastern Mexico were collectively known as the Coahuiltecans.  These nomadic people had struggled with warring tribes to the north and fell prey to European diseases to which they had no immunity.  The provisions and protection offered by the missions (minus the diseases) and this new way of life may have appeared the lesser of two evils.

The native people were welcomed into these compounds and offered two solid rooms for each extended family, who then took a weekly delivery of beef and corn rations and had access to several shared wells and outdoor ovens, all in exchange for making progress on becoming Spanish subjects.

On the other side of the compound lived the next higher up on the social ladder, Spanish merchants hailing from all over the world.  In addition to learning foreign languages and adopting new religious beliefs, the converts were educated on the arts of agriculture and other crafts practiced in the far-reaching corners of the Spanish Empire. Once these skills were mastered and the new citizens baptized, they were turned outside the protection of the mission walls to fend for themselves in this new way of life (and to free up new rooms for the next family).  It was quite an assembly line the Spanish crown developed to further the Empire.

It goes without saying that the focal point for any mission compound is the church, and this one was simple, but lovely on the inside.

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I was captivated by the two-story gallery running the length of the building and was surprised to learn that only three religious leaders were in residence here: a priest and two laypeople.

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Just beyond the arch on the far right is a personal garden and well.  Apparently there was sharing of neither wells nor veggies with the commoners. !!!  I guess it was good to be at the top of the social ladder.

After our tour, the girls brought their completed Junior Ranger books into the Visitor Center to receive another badge.

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More so than the other two, Firebolt was stoked about the Ranger-let tour and she gushed, “I really liked the tour – the Ranger made it all come alive, it was like I was watching a movie in my head.” And then she tentatively added on, “I think maybe I want to be a Ranger.”  High praise indeed.

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From the San José Mission we headed into downtown proper to see The Alamo.  By then the kids were just about historied-out, so it was okay that we arrived only half an hour before The Alamo closed.  We saw the main museum exhibit, moving through it with a purpose lest we get locked in.  IMG_0923More interesting than the folks involved in or the details surrounding the legendary standoff, our kids couldn’t get enough of the enormous koi, making wishes in the fountain, or trying on coonskin hats.

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Apparently equally underwhelmed by The Alamo, maybe our kids, too, are all ate up with the Yank?  At least they come by it honestly…

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The closing of the Alamo signaled the start of a search for a dinner venue, hopefully located somewhere along the Riverwalk, and we popped into several interesting stores along the way.  Check out the Nacho Libre fans below.

After stopping in a store that must be a cousin to IT’SUGAR where we found scrumptious birthday treats for our cousins, we identified the perfect San Antonio place to eat.

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I thought Casa Rio was nothing to write home about, but the kids were thrilled with their dinner choices and gleefully observed, “Mom, they have HORCHATA!” before each ordered some of their favorite beverage.

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We dined leisurely, watching tour boats cruise by, all aboard delighted by the unfailing smiles and enthusiastic waves from our girls, and then we meandered along the river to see what we could see.

In the waning sunlight, we retraced our steps to the Subaru.  Our drive back to Austin was uneventful and the perfect ending to seeing the best of San Antonio in six hours or less, making for a healthy amble down memory lane.  Not bad for a gaggle of Yanks…

Going Underground

Flight gave a great description of our departure from Phoenix under the cover of darkness.  After I rejoined the land of the living, I took the opportunity to do some writing and gather my thoughts on our way out to Guadalupe Mountains National Park.  For a large stretch of our drive, there wasn’t much scenery to keep my attention (save the cute boy I married) and I escaped into the memories of Phase One of our travels.

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We arrived at this National Park in the nick of time and pulled into the second to last first-come, first-served parking slips for us to stay for two nights.  Two other RVs pulled in shortly after we.  Although initially this campground served as a base from which we could explore Carlsbad Caverns, I’m glad we took the opportunity to learn about this particular corner of the country while the girls completed another Junior Ranger Badge program.

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A little snapshot of what I learned…  Some eleventy billion years ago, this stretch of the desert was actually in the middle of a shallow three-basin sea.  The Delaware Basin served to form Capitan Reef at its edge, the remnants of which formed the foundation of the Guadalupe Mountains.  Although you’d never know it, apparently this park is riddled with sea creature fossils and shares its creation with its neighboring National Park, Carlsbad Caverns.  Unfortunately, we did not budget any hiking time into our brief stay, but some of the trails look to be pretty spectacular.  Next time.

As soon as the GMNP Visitor Center was open the following morning, we popped over so the girls could finish the requisite booklets to earn their badges.

Their favorite activity was a scavenger hunt through the exhibits.  In addition to the expected specimens of fox, skunk, skink, and desert rat, there was also a tarantula hawk on display.  The name might call to mind a shrewd bird of prey, but you’d be wrong.

Tarantula hawk

The tarantula hawk is instead a giant wasp that hunts these sizable arachnids, delivering a sting to paralyze them, after which they lay their eggs inside the immobilized spider who is then devoured alive from the inside out by the growing larvae.  Gross is the first word that comes to mind, yet falls so short of the gruesome reality.  Now, I am no fan of arachnids, especially big hairy ones, but even this seems over the top on the fiendish scale.  The tarantula hawk is especially nasty to its prey, but, should a human be stung by one, the peer-reviewed scientific advice is to lie down and start screaming.

I’m not making this up.

(And I am very thankful that I waited to further my knowledge of this species until I was very far from its natural habitat.)

Carlsbad Caverns boasted no such ghastly beasties.  Only bats. Lots of them.  Somewhere around 400,000 colony residents, in fact, comprised of 17 different species.  These numbers can surge to nearly double that during spring and fall migration seasons.  We did learn quite a bit about White Nose Syndrome, the fungus that is decimating the global bat population that has been referenced as part of the Sixth Extinction.  !!!  We saw neither hide nor free-tail of the legendary colony, likely because 1) during the day most of the colony sleeps in a cavern closed off to the public and b) we didn’t stay to see the daily mass exodus at dusk.  This picture from the National Park Service website makes that evolution look pretty cool.

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We arrived at the topside Visitor Center in the early afternoon and, at the recommendation of the Rangers at the front desk, ate lunch before we started the hike. Although there is a little café down below at the far end of The Big Room, we were informed that there would be slim pickings as the elevators down were out of service and, as the full assortment of nourishment could not be humped down the winding cavern switchbacks, they were offering little more than bottled water and Clif bars.  After filling our bellies, we made our way to the underworld entrance, pausing for a photo of the girls somewhere only they could get into, before we began our descent.

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And here’s a view looking back up.

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The going down was fairly easy despite the hairpin switchbacks.  I thought the return to the surface would be a little trickier, but hopefully not quite so laborious as the general population of earlier visitors made it seem.  Although some of them appeared to be on the other end of the fitness spectrum from American Ninja hopefuls, I realized that, despite our descent, we did start out about 4400′ above sea level. !!!  Because I was not yet focused on puffing my way back up, my thoughts were allowed to wander and I recalled the last time I had so gone underground.  I took the kids down to Luray Caverns in Virginia on the day of the last Presidential Election, and wondered again how symbolic the timing was of that excursion to the earth’s bowls.

As we descended lower, my ambling train of thought was rerouted to take in the immediate sites.  Pictured below are a collection of “soda straws,” hollow stalactites that break really easily when you try to pull them from the ceiling.

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Kidding!  I have no first-hand knowledge of this (and our Junior Rangers would have reported me if I did), but that sure looked to be the case. Our next pause in the descent was at the Whale’s Mouth, made up of smooth drapery formations.

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And this stalagmite is just plain ugly.

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No idea why it has been showcased by illumination, but there you have it.

We next found ourselves in the Hall of Giants where three massive speleothems grew from separate stalactites and stalagmites into columns eons ago.

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If you patiently wait a few millennia, you might see a few other such columns form.

What struck me most during our visit to the netherworld was the fact that everything we were seeing had been made (only a few formations remained active) in the absence of any light at all.  During our hike more than a million light bulbs were illuminating our path around the Big Room, drawing attention to the below formations, and it was a little trippy to consider that with the flick of a switch (and the failure of numerous generators), the caverns would again be in total darkness.  Everything we’d seen on our way to, from, and in the Big Room would then sit here entirely unobserved, as it had for innumerable years, slowly growing under no one’s watchful eyes.

When we stopped briefly to get some water at the subterranean café, I told Flight that you couldn’t pay me a million, trillion dollars to work there, especially if it meant I had to take the elevator up and down every day to get there.  A little aside, a friend recently told me that only the week prior to our visit, one of the two elevators still in service came to a halt mid-transit, stranding three people inside due to a mechanical failure.  Fortunately, all three were safely recovered and lifted by harness to safety.  To that I say, “Nopety, nope, nope, nope.”  If necessary, I’d hike in and out every dang time.

I recognized that it was time to climb back out of this enormous hole in the ground when I started imagining what would happen if the aforementioned magical switch were indeed flicked to OFF and/or backup generators failed, and suddenly there were no lights at all, for I knew I would have died a frightfully slow and slowly frightful death trying desperately to feel my way out of the cavern.

While regrouping over water, Flight briefed the kids on the basic rule of our ascent:  the kid who complains the least on the hike back up wins.  Detail-oriented WoodSprite asked, “Wins what?”  “Bragging rights,” was Flight’s response and we trudged our way upwards, weighing whether borderline innocuous comments such as “Wow, are my legs tired…” constituted a whiny point against the speaker or if it was simply stated as a point of information.

At last the lighting seemed even more otherworldly to me and I belatedly realized it was because we had made it to the “twilight zone,” where the natural light coming in from the entrance casts an eerie pall for a short distance (see below), beyond which it would become pitch black without mankind’s intervention.

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Most creatures have far greater sense than to wander in beyond the twilight zone (not so we) and I joyfully celebrated our return to broad daylight.

One last stop in the Visitor Center to swear in our Junior Rangers.

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And so that I might learn about my newest least favorite profession (I’m collecting them along this journey), Bat Guano Mining.  Considering the Caverns were discovered in 1898, local entrepreneurs wasted no time in capitalizing on the caves’ seemingly endless supply of bat guano, and mined the pungently rich fertilizer by lantern light from 1902 to 1958.  Um, no.  No, thank you.  The underworld gift shop/café position suddenly seemed far more desirable.

IMG_0659Overall, our time walking on the bottom of the former Delaware Basin (and well below!) was rich with sights we’d never before seen, learning about occupations I have zero interest in pursuing, and studying up on creatures I have no desire to meet.  Our brief exploration was absolutely time well spent, yet I find myself eager to move on to the Hill Country, putting a healthy distance between potential underground grid failures, tarantula hawks, and me.

Musical Instrument Museum of Phoenix

In addition to spending time with Flight’s college roommate and his family, we had the opportunity to reconnect with some of my own extended family and some dear friends from our time in Whidbey Island.  Back in the day, before Flight and I were even dating, I had the good fortune to find the Skagit Scottish Country Dancers.  Let’s go a little further back down amnesia lane to put this all in context… 

When I was six years old, my Mom took me to a Burns Night Celebration or something of the like and I was mesmerized by the Highland Dancers.  No kidding, my Mom saw the look on my face and asked me, “Would you like to do that?”  With a slow-motion nod, I turned back to face the stage. I was utterly captivated by the briskly moving kilts and the complex footwork, all in time to droning pipes – what’s not to love?  Just don’t ask my classically trained violist Dutch father…

No, it’s not Riverdance, which has its roots in Ireland.  Highland Dancing is so named because it comes from the Scottish Highlands, where, traditionally, it was only done by men and served as a way for warriors to warm up before battle.   Each of the dances has a story behind it, which touches somewhere deep in my Celtic soul.  For example, the Highland Fling is a victory dance that was to be performed on the shield of your defeated opponent, which means you had to stay in one spot, which, although certainly challenging for a six-year old novice, proved easier as I trained.  To give you some sense of what this extremely athletic sport entails, here are a few images I found online:

Now the competition fields are dominated by women.  If you are curious, you can see the 2017 World Champions performing their Highland Fling victory dances here.

Where Highland Dancing was traditionally done by male warriors, Scottish Country Dancing is the Scots version of ballroom dancing, which if you’ve ever been to a Ceilidh (unbelievably pronounced kay-lee, and is Gaelic for “gathering”) is probably more appropriately done in a pub than a ball room.  Scottish Country Dancing is featured in one of my favorite movies from 1945, “I Know Where I’m Going,” where the Highland Schottische (pronounced “shotteesh”) is done moving about a ballroom.  A more recent (1994 is more recent, right?) cinematic debut of Scottish Country Dancing was in “Shallow Grave” with Ewan McGregor dancing Strip the Willow alongside his still living flatmates.  

Highland Dancing and Scottish Country Dancing are very differently performed, and it took me a while to get my ghillies (dance shoes) to comply with the new demands.  However, in my first dance class I felt immediately at home when a seasoned fellow took one look at whatever Beat Army t-shirt I was wearing, walked right up to me and asked, “Did you ever Beat Army?”  

Feeling a little sassy to be so challenged, I retorted, “Yeah, did you?”  

“Yeah. What’d you Beat Army in?”
“Swimming and Diving. How about you?”

“Football.  What company were you in?”

Following an exchange of our Academy pedigree, this fellow then asked me, “When did you graduate?”

“1994.” It was 1998.

An eyebrow raise, “Wow.”
“Why? When’d you graduate?”

“1959.”

I have never had a solid poker face and, astonished that he was still so nimble for someone so advanced in his years, I offered a two second, “Wooooooooooooooow!” to go with the astonishment that was clearly written on my visage.

“Well, you don’t have to say it like that…” and we were fast friends thereafter.

This fellow Academy grad and his lovely wife have been in Anacortes forever.  He was a P-2 pilot back in his day and went on to fly with Northwest Airlines before retiring and taking up steam-engine building full-time.  I’m not sure where playing the fiddle came into being, but he is also quite a musician.  His wife also danced and rescued wildlife critters in her spare time – what a fun couple!  These were just two of the lovely folks I got to meet among the Skagit Scottish Country Dancers, our teacher was fantastic.

Despite having grown up in Scotland (or maybe because she had grown up there?), our teacher and her English husband had fallen in love with the Whidbey Island years before while he was on a Royal Air Force (RAF) exchange tour flying with the U.S. Navy.  They bought property on Whidbey Island and built a house when they retired, from the RAF that is, as the two of them remained ever busy and have maintained careers beyond his service to Queen and Country.  

I’m still a little baffled as to their choice for next place of residence because they moved to the heat of Sun City, Arizona, just outside of Phoenix.  Perhaps they needed some drying out after a lifetime in the damp of the UK and Western Washington, but their new climate was everything that the previous places weren’t: wicked hot (even at the end of March) and insanely dry.  Had we not seen the temperature and humidity captured digitally during our stretch in Arizona, I would never have believed it.  Seriously, 90’s and single digit humidity.  

But I digress…

While we were in the area, I reached out to reconnect with our friends from Whidbey Island and they suggested we meet at the Musical Instrument Museum (MIM) in Phoenix.  I really had no idea what to expect but was blown away by the experience.

Our friends suggested we start our visit in the interactive room where there were so many spectacular noise makers.  I mindfully chose the word spectacular because there were many instruments, within this room and beyond, whose playing wouldn’t not create a spectacle.  WoodSprite intently went to work exploring these instruments.  

Firebolt was a little more reticent in her engagement, which surprised me as she is perhaps the most musically inclined of our flight.

And who wouldn’t be keen to set this gong to vibrating?

Outside the experiential room, the museum’s exhibits were clustered about five world regions: Africa and Middle East, Asia and Oceania, Europe, Latin America, and the United States/Canada.  Instruments from four of these five galleries resonated with me.  Having lived in Algeria when I was a kid, I was first drawn to learning more about the music that was specific to these Mediterranean countries.  

When asked to conjure an image of African culture, most Americans will never envision those that are unique to North Africa.  During our time in Algeria we made an incredible road trip across to Tunisia stopping at several long-forgotten towns of Roman ruins that litter the North African Coast.  I was nearly five years old and through the montage of my lived childhood experiences several from this trip stand out.  Most impactful was having my father the architect bend down to my level, point to the keystone at the top of a still intact arch, and give an impromptu age-appropriate physics lecture on why these architectural gems have lasted through the centuries.  Perhaps tied in significance with this memory was my own private moment of gleefully exploring on my own (my parents were probably 20’ away) and stumbling upon mosaic floors whose patterns were still discernable beneath the haphazard rubble.  I may or may not have absconded with a few of the tiles and carried them wherever I went for the rest of the summer.  Between those magical moments and seeing Raiders of the Lost Ark at age eight, I have long harbored a secret desire to become an archaeologist.  

But I digress, yet again…

Departing the African continent for Asia, I learned about the Shakuhachi musical art that evolved surprisingly out of the samurai tradition.  The elite samurai warriors were also expected to be accomplished artists and intellectuals.  When no longer called upon as warfighters, many became komusō monks, who were known as “priests of emptiness and nothingness.”  To demonstrate their separation from the material world, they would wear tengai (large baskets) over their heads while playing the shakuhachi.  This well-respected tradition is still practiced in Japan.  

Next stop was Indonesia’s musical treasures.  

I was intrigued by the modern set up for the Wayang Kulit, a traditional Indonesian shadow puppet show, but was disappointed to learn that we wouldn’t be seeing one today.  We had several Indonesian shadow puppets when I was growing up, a nod to my father’s birthplace.  I have never seen such a show performed in person and renewed my vow to learn more about my Indo-Dutch heritage. 

As our girls busied themselves learning more about the intricacies of a symphony, I meandered over to check out Scotland’s most iconic instrument, the bagpipe, which in days of yore were used to strike fear into the hearts of adversaries in battle.  Having been inculcated as a Highland Dancer in my youth, the sound of bagpipes wholeheartedly resonates with my Celtic warrior soul.  While I vaguely knew that other Celtic nations have used these instruments in their respective nation’s traditional music, I had no idea the pipes were so widely used across the globe.  

We tied up our visit to the MIM with a delicious lunch at the museum’s restaurant.  Beyond satisfying everyone’s rumbly in the tumbly, our time breaking bread with our friends was a delightful opportunity to reconnect. It was as though we’d seen each other only just last week instead of nearly a decade ago.  I’m delighted to report that the Phoenix sunshine appears to agree with them both and am already looking forward to our next visit, especially so I can get a photo with them, which I neglected to do this go around.  Next time… 

What Do These Rocks Say?

Flight’s ER doc friend had to go to work, so we made a caravan trip up to Sedona with his wife and their four kids.  I had never been to Sedona, but had seen many references to this piece of paradise where the Earth’s energy wells up definitively.  After my recent journey down the past life road, I was eager to see if I might recognize any rock formations and/or if the Sedona energy resonated with my own. 

We caught lunch at a Mexican restaurant, although it was a rather frenetic dining experience as seven of the party of 10 were 12 and under.  We emerged from the restaurant and took in a rather commercialized pass through town before making our way to the Crescent Moon Ranch.  Our friend let us know that these particular rock formations were perhaps the most photographed in all of Arizona, and I could see why…

I was especially enraptured when the sun came out and the rocks appeared to illuminate from within.  We snapped a few family pics and made our way to Oak Creek, one of the tributaries that feeds the Verde River. 

As we approached the Creek, we came across a battalion of rock cairns.  Rock cairns have been used for many purposes across the years, mostly for land navigation and burial purposes, but also for giving thanks and/or honoring loved ones. Curious as to why this place in particular had gathered so many monuments, I took off my shoes and stood amidst the precariously balanced towers, momentarily feeling the Earth’s deeply pulsating hum snaking her way into my feet.  With seven children in tow, I knew I wouldn’t be able to tarry and mindfully soaked in the energy for a few moments until I was “hey, momma”-ed away from this magical experience.  

I had heard that the land surrounding Sedona was riddled with energetic vortices and/or ley lines and, as I put my socks and shoes back on my tingling feet, I promised myself – and the vibrant energy – that I would come back, next time far savvier on how to explore and (hopefully?) less encumbered.  Perhaps as a means of honoring my commitment to return, I felt compelled to build my own rock cairn, mine to recognize our four children I only briefly knew.

Giving thanks for the three who continue to bless our existence, our gaggle moved from this space down to the river where we enjoyed periodic sun breaks. Our family has always enjoyed riparian ecosystems, as we’re reminded with each visit to any such moving water, yet this one spoke to my soul. 

As the sun parried with the evolving cloud masses, the alternating flat light and brilliance underscored the beauty of this space.  Flight found the perfect seat with an easy path across stepping stones. WoodSprite mindfully made her way out to this energetic oasis and back, and spent only a few moments relaxing on the sunning rock before her equally mindful return.

Our friends helped us find our way from Crescent Moon Ranch to this delightful swimming hole.  Not to be swayed from his intent to dunk himself in every body of water we encounter, Keeper vowed to submerge himself in the chilly waters.  While Flight accompanied Keeper to the water’s edge, the rest of our Flight of Five observed from afar – and donned fleece jackets as the sun stretched to meet the last of its journey to the horizon. 

We parted ways with our friends and journeyed the 45 minutes to meet my Mom’s sister and her husband.  It had been ages since I had last seen my Aunt and Uncle and, once again, I marveled at the blessings this trip has provided.  Despite how long it had been since our last visit, we settled easily into the business of catching up on family doings. 

Although not surprising in retrospect, I was caught off guard by seeing a myriad of expressions I had only ever seen on my mother’s countenance move fluidly through my Aunt’s features.  While the two sisters had grown up seven years apart and haven’t lived in the same place since 1961, they are very clearly cut from the same cloth. 

All told, it was a lovely day.  Yet, as is often the case with our journey, I’m left with the knowing that I need to return, for these rocks have much to tell me…

Those ARE My Rocks…

Still a little embarrassed by my inability to read a calendar, following my leisurely afternoon tucked into a fantastic place boasting exceptional eats, I was happy to hole up in the hotel hosting said conference and wait for the appointed hour (and date) to arrive.  When I let Flight know of my scheduling OOPS, he mentioned I was welcome to stay at his college friend’s place (compound, really) where we’d be parking Davista for the week.  For some reason, I felt like I wanted to be alone to marshal my thoughts in preparation for hearing Dr. Weiss speak (I really had no idea what to expect) and stayed on points with a local Marriott.  I didn’t feel ready for visiting yet – I just wanted to gear up to be present and soak in everything I could.

The next morning I made my way to the conference and was delighted to find myself amidst many other seekers.  Dr. Weiss gave the impression that he had delivered this talk some eleventy billion times before, meaning he exuded a confidence that sidled up to bored arrogance, a trait that tends to make me bristle.  Maybe he was just uninspired by the material and had to dig in deep to earnestly deliver it freshly to a new audience, but, after giving some background on an overview of reincarnation practices, he finally got to the meat of the presentation. 

Permit me to back up and share some of the history of reincarnation.  First, the idea of experiencing multiple lives is a belief that is as old as we are and there is some root of reincarnation in all major religions.  Frankly, I don’t know how I feel about reincarnation, but I know enough to know that there’s a lot that I just don’t know.  I’m also finding that as I age, I am settling in to being comfortable with not knowing – that doesn’t mean I don’t continue to seek, it’s just that my seeking has a less fervent, frenzied, answer-driven pace.

I remember when I had three back-to-back miscarriages between Keeper’s arrival and Firebolt’s.  As I was grieving and coming to terms with potentially being a flight of only three, a fellow Navy recruiter friend of mine said two things that stuck with me.  First, she said, “Maybe your child is just waiting for the right body…”  I have since reflected on that and have noticed that Firebolt is a young lady who has always liked to have things just so.  My friend also said, “People say that God created humankind in God’s image.  I think that what they’re referring to is the soul that is created in God’s image, not the flesh and blood of our bodies.  Who’s to say that a soul doesn’t need to experience multiple lifetimes to learn?”  Again, I’m not sure exactly how I feel about reincarnation, so I entered into this discussion with eyes wide open.

Dr. Weiss’ preamble to the group session involved a disclaimer that maybe one in three people would experience a past-life regression while we engaged in our group work.  He mentioned that it took him months of daily practice to be able to do it on his own and assured the audience that this was not something easily done, appropriately setting expectations.  I heard these words and, perhaps I was sidling up to cockiness myself, but I assumed that I would be part of the 33% and was eager to get to the work at hand.

I should probably back up and share a little bit about my own journeying.  I come by being “a wee bit fey” honestly, as they say in the old country.  Fey is a term the Scots have always assigned to those who see beyond what is seen and it manifests differently for each person.  My mother used to have visions that foretold death or maiming and, after several wrestling with several visions coming true, she clamped down on that gift (curse?) and, understandably, did not wish to see what she could see.  As a result, she is no longer plagued by such premonitions of disaster.  Yet, when she tells me not to light candles or drive carefully, I always listen.  We have recently talked about whether or not she is now in a space in her life where she might be interested in seeing more and I think she’s still sitting with that…

My own sense of being fey has ramped up throughout my life, or perhaps I have become more open to it as my portfolio of life experiences has grown and evolved.  Although I distinctly remember a dream I had at Girl Scout camp when I was 10 where I awoke with a deep knowing that I would marry a blond haired, blue-eyed boy whose first name happens to be Flight’s, I think surviving a near-death experience amplified my openness.  While in the hospital following our near-fatal car accident, I knew I was going to heal in Utah and unexpectedly received orders three weeks later to teach Naval Science at the University of Utah.  During my pregnancy with Keeper, Flight and I opted to keep his biological sex a secret until he arrived and I woke up at some point during my second trimester and told Flight that we were having a boy and that I’d seen him.  In my dream he had these beautiful blond curls and, with a hand on the banister, was taking the first of the flight of steps in our house in Anacortes (it wasn’t until Keeper was about 16 months when he went to the stairs and I realized that was the vision I had had…).  

Keeper at 16 months finally sporting the blond curls I had envisioned while pregnant.

In the wake of three back-to-back miscarriages, I did the first of my Reiki training sessions and had a vision of a late-pregnancy ultrasound showing the spine of our sweet child who was healthy and strong – and I knew we would welcome another beautiful soul into our family.  We learned we were expecting Firebolt the following month.  

For those readers who are not familiar with Reiki, it is a Japanese style of energy medicine (Rei meaning divine and Ki being life force energy (same as Qi or Chi in Chinese Medicine)) that anyone can learn and is a beautiful way to maintain whole health.  Fast-forward a few years later to my being in the thick of East Asian Medical School and learning acupuncture as a varsity method of directing the energetic flow of Qi when I simultaneously completed my training to become a Reiki Master, which involved a focused intent on doing this work from afar.  Although such work may seem outside the realm of possibility, healing energy can be employed to span decades and continents as it is not bound by time and space as are we creatures of flesh and blood. Using the scaffold of meridian theories that underlie East Asian Medicine, I often combine the fundamentals of Reiki with my training as an acupuncturist to help energetically rebalance systems from afar.  I share all this to say that I am accustomed to journeying across time and space and assumed that my ability to go to the time before my current walk would not be frustrated by doing so en masse.

And journey I did.  Here’s what I immediately wrote following our session:

Reddish brown rocks surround me.  My feet are bare, although sometimes I may wear sandals. I am a man and have no idea how old I am.   I saw the face of one person with whom I (routinely) conversed, but am unsure of who that is.  I am profoundly sad.  I have lost my partner and our children.  I am alone.  My village has been reduced to no more than 20.  There is no hope.  I die utterly alone, overcome by grief and hopeless.

After my death I was met by a creature I could not conceptualize.  She (I pause for I know not if she is a she…) morphed into my Oma (my father’s mother who died before I was born).  She loves me deeply and, not for the first time, I can’t help but wonder if I had been my Opa.  I’m not sure how to quantify those feelings.

I see Oma and she tells me it will all be okay, that the anguish I feel is only temporary.  It is a loss like nothing I’ve ever felt.  Perhaps this is the root of the foreboding I sense in my family life.  I try not to let it paralyze my actions, but I strongly feel like I’m holding this feeling back by intellectual strength.

I was working to capture more when another woman in the audience approached me and interrupted my thoughts.  She shared with me that she had a near-death experience at age five and has since been charged with advising Indigo children on their respective journeys with the guidance of her guardian angel named Fidgal.  She told me my aura spoke to her and handed me a card. Before she disappeared into the surrounding crowd, she let me know she was always available if I ever needed her (or Fidgal’s) guidance.  Not sure what to make of that, I attempted to go back to sharing space with my vision, which was frustratingly elusive.  Understanding that no more would come at this time, I closed my notebook and reseated it in my backpack.  I vaguely heard Dr. Weiss’ discussion closing out our time together and shifted my thoughts from the before time to rejoining my family at our friends’ compound.

My big take away from this experience (and life in general) is that there is so much that I just don’t know.  Frankly, I am not sure where to file being so at home amidst these red rocks, the profound loss I felt in my core, recognizing bare feet that are no longer my own, or the stalwart presence of my Oma throughout the day’s events.  Cautiously embracing the unknown, I will admit that I am curious how the inexplicable sense of foreboding I have that surrounds my immediate family may evolve (and hopefully dissipate?) perhaps through recognizing its possible root in an experience from the before time.  Most of all, I look forward to further exploring the red rocks of the West to see if any familiar outcroppings present themselves and beckon me home.

Welcome home, now GET OUT

When we got to Seal Beach RV Storage, I was stoked to see that Davista was just as we’d left her last December.  Flight and I had estimated at least a day’s worth of tasks to complete before redeploying in our house on wheels, so we planned to spend a couple of days at the Seal Beach RV campground before getting underway in earnest.  First and foremost was getting the water tanks sanitized for our return to traveling.  That process involved plenty of bleach, repeated filling and dumping of tanks, and patience.  I’m not so good with the latter, so it was good that Flight led the charge there.

I spent some solid time meal planning and, frankly, felt a little out of practice.  How lovely it was to be back in a small space that required solid advanced planning and no waste! WOO HOO! I couldn’t help but wonder why we have so much stuff in a sticks and bricks house…  Within 30 minutes of our relocating Davista to the campground, I felt a great rush of being welcomed home and gushed to Flight, “I am so happy to be back here!”

As we got reacquainted with Davista, Flight and I were both surprised to find the stash of clothes we had left here to overwinter was more plentiful than we had remembered, meaning we were, ahem, overstocked to some degree.  Firebolt had the greatest number of outgrown clothes awaiting our return, which we stashed in Davista’s underbelly until I could take them to rejoin their friends in Maryland a few weeks hence.  We had also sent six boxes to our friends’ house, much of which were filled with homeschool books and all contents needed to find homes somewhere in Davista.  The kids were happy to postpone schooling as long as possible and weren’t disappointed that we couldn’t collect the packages until the following day when we planned to grab dinner with our friends and make the drop.

While Flight ran to Trader Joe’s to refill our larder, the girls and I went for a bike ride. Actually, they were on their bikes and I was walking at a brisk clip and loving every minute of it.  Having narrowly escaped the latest Nor’easter, it felt decadent to be out again in my standard deployment uniform of t-shirt and exercise skort.  Our excursion halted abruptly at the gated entrance to the Weapons Depot, where this ship was loading up, and we turned back.

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As my ability to identify ships is rather dated, I am unable to classify this one more specifically than, “Um, Warship?”

More interesting than those pointy grey things that float on the water (Sorry, Papa), we saw a few signs of wildlife. The last time we were in Seal Beach I was so focused on lamenting the closeout of phase one of our travels that I paid no attention to the fact that the Naval Weapons Station partially shares a footprint with the Seal Beach National Wildlife Refuge.  While the girls were thrilled to be reunited with their bikes, I was surprised to see how much had escaped my notice here last go around. On our hike/bike we found a sizable discarded snakeskin (don’t care to wonder where that larger creature went), a salamander whose tail may or may not have been made shorter by Firebolt’s bike tire (she wasn’t sure), and a host of heron nests (as impressive in size as the winged creatures themselves!).  I have indeed missed our travels.

It took us less than 48 hours in Seal Beach to regain confidence in our gear and we managed an early launch Friday morning for Joshua Tree National Park.  This was the first (and likely only) place we would be revisiting on the next installment of our trek and the kids were beside themselves excited to return to the Park.  I was curious to see how well I’d be received as the last time around it didn’t go so well for me.

Prior to leaving Maryland last week, I had read Many Lives, Many Masters by Dr. Brian Weiss, a Yale-trained psychiatrist who stumbled upon an interesting premise while regressing patients in therapeutic sessions, inadvertently seemingly into past lives.  Dr. Weiss has found that unexplained phobias can sometimes be traced back to a time that predates our current life experiences.  While the jury is still out on all that I read, I was curious to learn more about his process.  My angel again suggested Google and I discovered that, while he would be speaking in Japan the following month and somewhere in Europe after that, Dr. Weiss was scheduled for a conference in Phoenix the day before we arrived in town.  !!!

Curious timing, I thought, and felt compelled to go.  I told Flight there was a speaker I wanted to go see in Phoenix on the day we were rolling from Joshua Tree and he said, “Go for it!  Take the Subaru and we’ll follow either that afternoon or Sunday, depending on whether or not they have room for us.”  Perfect – I love how a plan comes together!

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That afternoon we hiked about near our campsite and Flight and the kids climbed as many rocks as they were able to.  Keeper was wearing a skeleton mask/neck guard that he had received as a party favor before we departed Maryland.

I found his ensemble a little disconcerting, but he was keen to keep the sun off his neck.  I deferred to my vertigo’s dictated demands and didn’t venture terribly high, again happy to assume the role of the photographer.  As we were getting dinner ready, the girls were busy playing and dancing on nearby rocks.

Firebolt was stoked to begin a new whittling project and WoodSprite just wanted to dance.  On the rocks.  Better than on tables or a bar, I suppose…

While the girls were jamming to music only they could hear, I was unable to ignore Joshua Tree’s continuous unspoken invitation to depart, which again left me on edge.  Apparently, the arrival of 2018 has rendered me no less repellant to the quiet energy at home here.  After a fitful sleep (no kidding, the worst slumber I’d had in a long time), I woke up for the final time to dress and got on the road by 4:57 am.  It was just over a four-hour drive to Phoenix and the conference started at 10 am.  Despite being so discombobulated by my return to Joshua Tree, I was on time. Early, even.  Yay, me!

Intrigued by what I might learn at the conference, I let my thoughts meander while the sunrise burst forth.

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It was a lovely display, and I contemplated life’s mysteries, potential past lives and stewed prunes. I rolled into Phoenix and pulled into the parking lot of the hotel hosting the conference.  Time check, 9:22 am.  Check me out – I am NEVER early.  Permit me a little backstory to explain.

When I was pregnant with Keeper, my initial gestational diabetes test results came back questionably high and it was recommended that I do a more extensive test.  This particular test requires fasting and, after an initial blood test, begins with ingesting a nasty sugary concoction (sadly, they were out of jelly beans) to see how your system handles the sudden glucose spike.  Following consuming this vile drink, you provide blood samples at intervals of 30 minutes, one, two, and three hours post consumption. After I provided the initial sample and drank sugar, I pulled out my knitting and a woman having the same test done, hers to evaluate hypoglycemia, said, “You know we can leave between the blood tests, right?”

I thanked her for the reminder and told her I was aware we could leave, but it probably wasn’t wise for me to do so.  I admitted to her that I feared I would get busy doing something else and wouldn’t get back at the appropriate time, meaning I would have to redo the test.  I assured her it was much wiser for me to stay here and knit for the three hours instead of running the risk of being late. She chuckled and, apparently not suffering the same time vortex issues, went about her day easily popping back in at the appropriate times.

There was a crotchety older gentleman a few chairs down who followed our exchange and gruffly noted, “You sound like my daughter-in-law.  She’s late to EVERYTHING.  It’s very rude.”

“Um, wow, sounds like you’ve got some family stuff to work out,” I thought before benignly commenting, “Well, I certainly don’t mean to be rude, I just try to do as much as I can and that sometimes means I run later than I’d like.”  He loftily proclaimed, “It sounds like you need some military training.”  I momentarily entertained the idea of sharing with him my military pedigree, but thought better of it and simply stated, “I’m not sure that would help.”

The additional 13 years since hasn’t helped me hone my concept of time.  Flight maintains that while I am not quite as bad as P-3 Maintenance Time, which required automatically tripling any forecasted repair times, I do tend to constantly underestimate how long things should take, often by as much as half.  I looked on the positive side of my sleeping so poorly – Thank you, Joshua Tree, for ensuring I was out Davista’s door in plenty of time.

Upon arrival, I wandered into the hotel and looked around for the conference.  Because I knew it wasn’t planned to be a small, intimate affair, I was a little perplexed by not immediately locating the venue, so I asked at the front desk where I might find the conference.  The woman behind the desk looked in her huge scheduling binder and informed me that the conference I was looking for was actually on tap for tomorrow.

Unable to comprehend what I just heard, I said, “I’m sorry, um, what?  I thought it was scheduled for Saturday, March 25th.”  And, as she was confirming that today was actually Saturday, March 24th, my brain slowly caught up.  I belatedly realized that if you were to look at any calendar, iPhone, or conference confirmation email, you’d see that March 25th is, in fact, a Sunday and that today is not yet that day.

Strong work, TACCO, strong work.

While 38 minutes early was a certainly noteworthy given my history, 24 hours and 38 minutes early was (thankfully) truly unheard of.   I wandered back out to the car, wracking my brain on how I managed the scheduling SNAFU. I blame Joshua Tree’s understated yet very clear eviction notice.  After I texted Flight and sheepishly confessed my calendar mix-up, I holed up in a fantastic local Scottsdale eatery (Modern Market) and tackled writing about some of our last travel phase.

Admittedly, I am woefully behind on our blog.  It’s tricky business when every day is a big day.  I might have caught up some while back in Maryland, but found myself consumed by intermittent travels bookended by house projects.  I can’t help but apply an observation Flight has made regarding my admitted knitting problem: “I think there’s a calculus equation that proves that the rate at which you acquire yarn will never be overtaken by the rate that you complete projects.”   While I didn’t at all appreciate his blunt estimation, most frustratingly, he’s dead on.  Similarly, I’m sure the rate at which we enjoy our experiences on the road will continue to exceed my ability to capture them in a timely manner. Sigh…

In addition to affording me some quiet alone time to write, I was able to reflect on how our redeployment is very different from our initial departure.  The biggest difference is that we now have an ultimate destination and end time.  That and our lessons learned thus far really only need to be dusted off instead of, well, learned.  Resuming this lifestyle has been far easier than either Flight or I had anticipated and I am delighted to be back underway.

Gathering that comforting observation around me, I again tried to unpack how I could have gotten my days so confused.  I kept coming back to Joshua Tree really wanting me gone.  Why was that so? I wondered.  Perhaps I had set fire to that parcel of land in a previous life?  I guess I’ll have to wait until tomorrow to find out…